I'm dealing with a no start / no crank on a 90' 240 Wagon AT . It's a bit of a humbling situation to say the least… Forgive the long post…

BACKSTORY:
Last week when I Started it seemed to struggle I little (slow crank) I notice the volt gauge stayed down at the 12.5 start up level voltage until revved the engine, then jumped up to normal 14.5v reading. I have had a few of these 'slow crank, then starts' in the last few months. The car drove fine and voltage stay up at 14.5 for the 3 mile trip, 45 minutes later went to start got maybe 3 slow cranks and then a few clicks from starter, then nothing…

WHAT I'VE DONE RECENTLY:
- timing belt
- water pump
- Radiator (crack at upper hose flange during T-belt swap)
- New Shifter bushings
- Odometer gear
- neutral safety switch
- Most recent: Just days before I installed a 52mm tach from a 84' 240.

WHAT I'VE TRIED:
- Jumper neutral safety switch
- Cleaned battery terminals
- Checked Plugs
- jumped battery
- replaced battery
- Jumped from remote start switch to battery
- Jumped from remote start switch to Starter
- Jumped from Battery to Starter
- Check and cleaned starter connections
- Pulled alternator, voltage regulator brushes borderline 5mm (ordered replacement)
- Disconnected AMM
- Hand crank to check from cam movement (t-belt)
- Checked and cleaned 25a fuse
- Checked and cleaned grounds: Main (to block), fender-wall, Alternator, power steering, gray firewall.

QUESTIONS:
- With the fault code unit socket 6 I get a constant light on? Is this indicating that I have a short somewhere in the ignition? I know the unit at least halfway works because I get a 1-1-1 reading from socket 2.
- All but my SRS dash lights stay on. SRS lights seems to go off intermediately?
- Could a bad crank position sensor cause this type of problem? Where is it? Is there anyway to test it? Seems to be absent from the Bentley book?
- Do I simply have a bad starter?

Thanks guys,
- Oscar

 

My *guess* would be a bad starter if you get a weak crank even after cleaning all the wire connections.

A bad crank position sensor will cause intermitten or no spark, its at the top of the transmission bell housing.

 

Oscar,

Did you get a strong crank when you used the remote starter? If not, I agree with Bubba that it could be the starter solenoid or starter.

 

After quite a battle with the top starter bolt I was finally able to remove it. Once I Installed the new starter, she fired right up! So I guess If you began to get the occasional slow crank, look over that charging system if it checks out then your starter is probably on it's way out.

Thank for the help,
- Oscar