How hard is it to change a fuel pump and or crank sensor on one of these. i have a chance to buy one for 600 with low mileage. Its turns over but does not fire.

 

intank fuel pump is 6 out of 10 in difficulty.

Hammer; brass punch; phillips & flat crew drivers
latex gloves; rags to stuff under hoses as you take off the clamps to prevent fuel going everywhere
PS. angle the entire unit towards your belly as you sit inside the trunk.
PS. if you pop off the floating ball don't panic....you can fish it with long salad tongues.
open air project
PS. if you brake off the + or - connectors to the pump, you can re solder easy. no problem.
I USED A MULTI TOOL WITH A METAL BLADE TO MAKE THE ACCESS OPENING WIDER THAN IT IS AND IT MAKES THE WORLD SO INNOCENT. IT LETS YOU TILT THE SENDING UNIT MORE AND MAKING THE FLOATING BALL AND FILTER COME OUT NICE.

Outside pump is a piece of cake...just be careful when you take off the plastic hose from filter to pump....back it up. the three rubber supports/nipples are a pain to put back together..
5 out of 10 in difficulty.

1) disconnect - battery cable
2) bleed off lines by grabbing a wire with both ends open and put one on fuse # 5 and to fuse # 7
the left side of the fuse connections....
if yo don't you will have to grab a bucket and rags for the fuel coming out or come up with something
3) start taking everything apart... on the outside pump you will need sockets 12mm or 13mm? open end wrenches... FOR 600 BUCKS IS A GOOD BUY AND LOW MILES...YOU KNOW THE ODOMETER GOES OUT ALL THE TIME...AND ARE EASILY REPLACED. But they go for a long time...I am on my 4th Volvo..and one of them had a hole in the head and ran freaking normal...250k miles and going strong.

 

I forgot to mention that I cut away at the access opening about an inch all the way around EXCEPT WHERE THE METAL COVER HAS ITS TWO SCREWS SO I CAN RE ATTACH IT...AND USED PLUMBERS PUTTY TO FILL THE GAPS.

OTHER THING I DID WAS THAT I DRILLED A 3/8TH INCH HOLE SOMEWHAT NEXT TO THE cover screw hole(top one as you sit inside the trunk and facing the cover) AS TO SHOVE THE SCREW DRIVER TO UNDO THE BIG HOSE CLAMP
WAY EASIER..

 

WAIT, YOU HAVE 240 SEDAN BUT DID YOU MEAN 740? if thats the case I have done only this surgical incision on a 240 model.

 

Hahahaha! His name is 92_240_sedan but the car he wants help with in this thread is a 90s Volvo 740
Crank sensor cable is easy to change but takes time as access is limited down there.
Even the fuelpump in the tank (if you have only one there and none beneath the car) is easy to change but it takes time as the hole is too small while the pump is huge and all the pump stuff is crude.

 

Wow what the hell was going through my brain...!

 

a 1990 740 could be single pump regina, OR dual pump bosch. the replacement process is the same but you need to use the correct pump.

google 740 tank pump replacement, someone has a good pictorial howto.

edit: insomnia strikes.
here's the walkthrough, http://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/Fuel...eplacement.htm

a note on this, on my 1992 740 turbo wagon, I had my mechanic do this. the ring was off a day or two because he needed more parts, when they arrived, he couldn't get the ring to go back on, it kept popping off (Hey, I even tried for an hour, using the hose clamp around it to try and get it to stay on the threads, nothing worked). what we SHOULD have done was put the clamp on it as soon as it came off and tightened it to hold the rings shape, and then loosen it just before reassembly. what we ended up doing was, get a new plastic lock ring

 

I wouldn't worry too much about the fuel pump just yet. Buying a DOA car and trusting the PO's diagnosis is foolhardy at best. Pull the codes and see where you are on that. If you get the rpm sensor signal missing code, you can pretty assume the cps is dead. That alone will cause a no-start. Unless it is a turbo car or a GLE w/ the 16v B234, you have Regina injection...one high pressure fuel pump in the tank. Honestly though, check the easy stuff first, i.e., the cps...AFTER pulling codes.

 

where exactly is the crank sensor? How do I pull codes?

Sorry for all the questions lol. Justexcited about possibly getting a nice 740 with a great interior

 

the crank sensor is behind the engine block, and picks up a 'tone ring' on the flywheel where the engine is bolted to the transmission.

for OBD codes on LH2.4 and such that have the diagnostic block on the left fender under the hood, see Engine and OBD Diagnostic Codes

 

All you guys are freaking awesome. He wants 500-600 for it, I am hoping i can get it running, and then get a trip tag and bring it home.