She ran well and strong but had chek engine 1-2-1 lambda code and im up for inspection so i replaced mass airflow sensor and o2 sensor and took it for a test drive where it now losses power and studders like a misfire as soon as the turbo engages and it idles low (500rpm) and stalls when i come to a stop on hills..... but no check engine light now.
Any one have any idea what i might have ****ed up?

 

The turbo cars are subject to air leaks in the hoses between the air mass meter and the throttle plate. An overlooked one is the short hose from the intercooler (at the top on the left side) that connects to the pipe going to the throttle plate. They burn through on the bottom - you have to take it off to see the damaged area.

I trust you have checked basics - condition of spark plugs, plug wires, cap and rotor, obvious air leaks.

 

You may still have a MAFS problem even after replacing it. We are seeing that a lot lately with "new" sensors that are sub par. And since you replaced the MAFS, may be that. Before replacement, how did it run, besides the 1-2-1 code? Put the old MAFS back in, see what it does.

 

-hoonk- i removed all the hoses and inspected ( all good) and reinstalled them and still got the same problems plus now it revs up and down at idle ( 300-1000 rpms) as well.

-lev- im gonna try swapping out the mafs for the old one in the morning.

i apreciate the help guys!

 

-lev- as for how it ran before the part swaps, it ran smooth and had plenty of power and i felt no noticable change when the check engine light came on. Still drove it for 2 1/2 weeks till i had the money for parts and it ran fine. No actuall issues until the "fix"

 

What kind of MAFS did you get, brand, condition, price? Many problems with cheap MAFS--best way to know is to put in a "known good" unit to make sure. There is no good way to bench test them or clean them as some recommend.

 

I swapped the old mafs in and rechecked all the hoses again.This rigid hose is the only hose that is not clamped

I noticed that the white hose marked in red was dangiling next to a barb on the connector for the black hose so i plugged that in. Tried starting it and after 30 sec at idle it bogged and stalled. Un plugged it and the same. Wouldnt even drive. Swapped the new sensor back with the white line plugged in and it was back to yesterdays issues with it being drivable but bogging when the turbo needle hits white on the dash board and then idle jumping up and down at the stops and occasionally stalling

as to your question lev i got a blue streak mafs from orileys autoparts.

 

So, return that MAFS, obviously it's bad (common), and get another one somewhere, even a used one. Did you clear the code from before, did it come back? I think the MAFS is the problem.

 

Yeah i cleared the codes and its still clear. I'll try ordering another sensor.