91 Volvo 740 stalled on freeway and won't start!
#1
91 Volvo 740 stalled on freeway and won't start!
I have a 1991 Volvo 740. I was driving on the freeway and the car stalled. I changed the spark plugs but that wasn't it. I diagnose the car and received no ignition system codes but received three fuel system codes: 2-2-1, 2-2-3, and 2-3-3. The car still won't start. Does anyone know what I need to do to start the car?
#3
Thanks for replying lev. I hear my fuel pump when I try to turn it on. It feels like it wants to turn on but it can't. Will the fuel pump or crankshaft positioning sensor be a reason my car stopped on the freeway and wouldn't start back up?
I thought the spark plugs were a reason but they weren't wet but really dry. It's a regular 740. Thanks.
I thought the spark plugs were a reason but they weren't wet but really dry. It's a regular 740. Thanks.
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on your fuel pump, FYI, when you turn the ignition on, it runs for about 1 second then stops. it starts again when the car is turning over as detected by the crank position sensor, then stops again about 1 second after the engine stops turning.
CPS would be real high on my list, the one on my wife's 94 mercedes conked out a couple weeks ago, stopped her dead in the middle of SF in rush hour traffic. eek.
CPS would be real high on my list, the one on my wife's 94 mercedes conked out a couple weeks ago, stopped her dead in the middle of SF in rush hour traffic. eek.
#10
If you hear the pump run when the key is turned to the II position and the car still won't start, my bet would be a failed crank position sensor. Usually when these fail it is due to cracked and flaking insulation on the sensor wire. The CPS is located on the top of the bell housing where the engine and transmission mate. There should be a thick gray coax wire running from it to a connector on the firewall. If the insulation is bad on this wire then the sensor could use replacing.
#12
Also, a fuel pump that makes noise is not, by default, a good fuel pump. I've replaced countless fuel pumps that made noise but were dead and no fuel pressure
Check for fuel pressure while you're in there. Unscrew the cap and press the schrader valve in...should squirt fuel out if the fuel pump is good.
Check for fuel pressure while you're in there. Unscrew the cap and press the schrader valve in...should squirt fuel out if the fuel pump is good.
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well, I'd test the pumps before blindly replacing. specifically, I'd disconnect the fuel line where it goes into the main pump under the car, and jumper the in-tank pump at its connector near the trunk.... when hotwired to 12V, you should get a strong solid stream of gas from the intank pump. then I'd reconnect it, and disconnect the fuel line at the engine, and run a hose into a jug, hotwire both pumps, and expect a *STRONG* stream of gas under significant delivery pressure.
#17
I was wondering about this. My fuel pump is very noisy. Guess that means I'll need to check my in-tank fuel pump.
(2) fuel pumps...
(2) fuel pumps...
note that the main pump will be quite noisy if the in-tank pump isn't working. under those conditions, my 92 740T ran OK with more than 1/2 tank, but below 1/3rd tank it would stumble under heavy throttle. replaced the intank pump and main pump is quiet as it should be, smooth and happy.
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open the oil cap, have someone crank the car, adn see if the camshaft inside the valve cover is turning while the engine is cranking over. if its NOT turning, then your timing belt is broken, and must be replaced. if it IS turning, well, the belt could have slippeda couple teeth I guess, that will require a bit more work to confirm.