I have a 1991 Volvo 740. I was driving on the freeway and the car stalled. I changed the spark plugs but that wasn't it. I diagnose the car and received no ignition system codes but received three fuel system codes: 2-2-1, 2-2-3, and 2-3-3. The car still won't start. Does anyone know what I need to do to start the car?

 

Fuel pump, fuel relay, crankshaft position sensor. I'd look at those first...
Spark plugs? Why? Were they bad?
740, turbo, or Normally Aspirated? If NA, Regina or Bosch system?

 

Thanks for replying lev. I hear my fuel pump when I try to turn it on. It feels like it wants to turn on but it can't. Will the fuel pump or crankshaft positioning sensor be a reason my car stopped on the freeway and wouldn't start back up?
I thought the spark plugs were a reason but they weren't wet but really dry. It's a regular 740. Thanks.

 

spark plugs would not stop an engine like that. fuel pump or the cps would. if the pump works, and the engine cranks over, the cps is what i'd look at.

 

Oh ok..ill check out my fuel pump and cps. Thanks. What about the codes: 221(lambda operation), 223(idle valve signal), and 233 (idle valve-air leak)? Do I need to replace the idle valve. Thanks lev.

 

Check the valve for leaks, clean it may be, but the valve won't keep the car from running--it controls idle speed. I don't put a lot of faith in OBD1 codes, they are pretty hit and miss.

 

I see. Thanks for the help lev. Much appreciated. I'll get back to you after I check out what you told me.

 

on your fuel pump, FYI, when you turn the ignition on, it runs for about 1 second then stops. it starts again when the car is turning over as detected by the crank position sensor, then stops again about 1 second after the engine stops turning.

CPS would be real high on my list, the one on my wife's 94 mercedes conked out a couple weeks ago, stopped her dead in the middle of SF in rush hour traffic. eek.

 

Hey pierce, I hear my fuel pump turn on when I turn the key.

 

If you hear the pump run when the key is turned to the II position and the car still won't start, my bet would be a failed crank position sensor. Usually when these fail it is due to cracked and flaking insulation on the sensor wire. The CPS is located on the top of the bell housing where the engine and transmission mate. There should be a thick gray coax wire running from it to a connector on the firewall. If the insulation is bad on this wire then the sensor could use replacing.

 

Seen plenty of good looking yet failing CPS... Seen plenty of flaking insulation ones still doing their job! You just can't tell by the looks of a CPS.

 

Also, a fuel pump that makes noise is not, by default, a good fuel pump. I've replaced countless fuel pumps that made noise but were dead and no fuel pressure

Check for fuel pressure while you're in there. Unscrew the cap and press the schrader valve in...should squirt fuel out if the fuel pump is good.

 

Ok..thanks everyone for the help. I should be receiving my cps and fuel pump relay within a week. Hopefully the car starts. Cool forum by the way everybody! Really helpful

 

note that the main pump will be quite noisy if the in-tank pump isn't working. under those conditions, my 92 740T ran OK with more than 1/2 tank, but below 1/3rd tank it would stumble under heavy throttle. replaced the intank pump and main pump is quiet as it should be, smooth and happy.

 

Oh ok..ill replace the pump if it's not the crank sensor

 

well, I'd test the pumps before blindly replacing. specifically, I'd disconnect the fuel line where it goes into the main pump under the car, and jumper the in-tank pump at its connector near the trunk.... when hotwired to 12V, you should get a strong solid stream of gas from the intank pump. then I'd reconnect it, and disconnect the fuel line at the engine, and run a hose into a jug, hotwire both pumps, and expect a *STRONG* stream of gas under significant delivery pressure.

 

I was wondering about this. My fuel pump is very noisy. Guess that means I'll need to check my in-tank fuel pump.

(2) fuel pumps...

 

Hey how's everybody doing? A nearby mechanic came by my car and said that my timing belt is the problem. I haven't replaced the cps yet. Should I replace the timing belt before my cps? What do you guys think? Thanks.

 

Is it broken? Is it missing teeth (skipped timing)? If so, then yes, it should be replaced before anything else. I don't know why we never addressed that possibility...

 

open the oil cap, have someone crank the car, adn see if the camshaft inside the valve cover is turning while the engine is cranking over. if its NOT turning, then your timing belt is broken, and must be replaced. if it IS turning, well, the belt could have slippeda couple teeth I guess, that will require a bit more work to confirm.