Yea thanks lev and pierce, we opened the oil cap and it didn't turn.

 

well, the good news is, the B230F(T) is a non-interference engine, so the odds of any internal engine damage from a broken timing belt are very slim. new belt and tensioner, and you should be good to go.

 

More good news, changing the timing belt wont be that hard. Namely, you won't have to remove both front wheels.

May as well check the water pump while you have the pump off, be careful with the plastic cover.

 

Thanks pierce, I've been looking at videos and step-by-step instructions. I might try to do it myself because the mechanic is trying to charge me $300 which sounds too much. I've have this step-by-step instructions but it's for a turbo.
740 timing belt
Will I be able to use these instructions for my non-turbo 740? Thanks everyone

 

Turbo or not, makes no difference! Getting off the crank bolt is the hardest part if you don't have a holder... but there is a way. Make sure you line up the timing marks!

 

On my 1992 940 with the electric fan moved out of the way I can just barely get this impact on the crankshaft bolt. Loosened it right up. Also works on lug nuts.

 

the mechanic wants $300, cuz for him to do it right, its a 3 hour job. for you, it will probably take longer.

 

$300 is not too outrageous for a t-belt... You can do it yourself providing you have some mechanical ability. But if you've never done anything around an engine bay this is not a way to start--simple as these cars are, they still need some tools and know how.

 

I got a subscription to alldatadiy. It lists labor times for some jobs. Don't know how accurate it is but it says 2.4 hours for timing belt and tensioner. At those hours $300 seems close...especially if that includes parts.

 

Thanks everyone for their support. Timing belt got fixed and my car now runs. Yeeeaaa

 

Can you explain the reason for having (2) pumps? Besides double the money to spend when something fails...

On other makes of cars (and trucks), I have replaced the dual-pump setup with a single pump with great success.

 

Did you ever wonder why these cars last so long? Volvo tends to overbuild things. The in-tank pump reduces the wear & tear on the main pump which provides pressure to the fuel rail. It is rather inexpensive as compared to the main pump as well and if kept in good running condition, the main pump lasts a good long time. My '90 has the original main pump and it is still very quiet and the car has 240k miles on it.

 

Hot weather can cause too much work on the external main pump (especially when the tank is low) to get the fuel over the hump. That is why all the models since have only 1 main pump that is located in the tank.

 

That didn't answer my question, and I am well aware of how well-built these cars are. I've owned many in my life.

So to be more specific, comparing the internal fuel pump with the external pump...what are the fuel deliver specs on each? I haven't been able to find those numbers to compare. I did, however, find some specs on a replacement in-tank fuel pump.

 

I was answering that question.

For the main pump, it delivers somewhere around 50-55 psi. For the in-tank pump, I don't think the pressure spec is as important as how much fuel it can deliver. I do know that the injectors - when open - deliver around 320 cc/min ('90s LH 2.4). You could compute out what flow that equates to and add tolerance.

You might want to try the turbobricks forum as they really get into the technical details of fuel delivery.