I have a 1993 Volvo 240 with over 278k miles that I generally use as my daily commute car. I have been away for a couple weeks and when I returned the car would not start - nothing happened, no lights, nothing at all when I turned the key. I attached a portable jump starter and the car's engine fan started running loudly (the car key was in my pocket). Unfortunately, the battery did not charge before the portable charging unit used all its power and I resorted to using the jumper cables and my other vehicle to get Volvo started. Took Volvo for 25min drive and when I turned the car off, the engine fan was very loud (again). Less than 5min later, I tried to start the car, and it would not turn over, I only got dash lights. During those 5min, the fan continued to blow air. The fan quickly drained the battery. Unfortunately, the battery was too low for the trickle charger to work when I got it hooked up a couple minutes later. I will have to jump the car to drive it again. I checked the fuses inside the car and all are fine. While on the 25min outing, I noticed the voltage meter did not move much above the red zone (it was always out of the red zone, but not by much). The battery indicator did not get back to the middle zone where it used to stay. The battery has a 1/10 sticker, and has been in use about 3 years. Do you think this continual blowing fan problem is related to one of the relays? If so, which one(s)? If not a relay, what else should be checked?

When I heard the fan this afternoon, I realized that I heard the loud fan the last time I drove the car and parked it in the garage. At that time, I just figured the fan was blowing after the car stopped because it was a warm day outside, and the next time I went to the garage I heard nothing. The car has been really good, but a couple months ago I had the spark plugs and distributor cap replaced, and tightened belts when car stalled then failed to start after backing out of garage. I had no stalling issues before that incident.



Any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks so much!

 

probably the fan relay is stuck on. on a 1993 240, according to the greenbook, its behind the battery, against the fender wall.

unplugging the relay should disable the fan.

the relay is controlled by A) the AC pressure sensor in the condensor (right side of the radiator?), and B) the AC dryer pressure sensor and C) the AC compressor solenoid circuit. basically, if the AC is on, the fan should be running.

unplug the relay, and stick a volt meter or test light between relay socket terminals 85 and 86... if you see juice there, then the relay is being TOLD to turn on, so something is fubar in the AC control circuit.

 

Thanks! I unplugged the relay, charged up the battery and the car started. I ordered a new relay so I can make the swap in a few days. The volt meter was not in its expected location, so it has to be located before I can attempt that part of the test. I appreciate your help!

 

try not to use your AC when not moving at speed until you get that fan fixed.

 

Right. I am going to leave the car parked for now as it is too warm for no AC at the moment. Thanks!

 

Pierce, thanks from me, too. This solved a problem I'd been wrestling with!

 

This sounds very similar to a problem I'm having with my '91 940. It has both a belt driven fan behind the radiator, and an electric fan in front of it (just behind the grill). Well, I had the whole come-out-in-the-morning-and-the-car's-dead experience, and when I jumped it the electric fan stayed on even when the car was turned off.

Now, this car was built as a turbo but someone swapped a normally aspirated B230F engine at some point.

As a stopgap, I pulled the connector that powers the electric fan. The battery still drains when I'm not using the car enough.

There's a relay on the front of the radiator overflow tank. It's relay number 1323592-1. It gives a loud click when I connect the electric fan.

I've checked the Chilton's guide, but it's not very clear. Anyone have any suggestions? I believe the thermostat is okay, because if I just let the engine run while the car isn't moving, the engine stays at the right operating temperature, as indicated by the dashboard gauge and the feel of the radiator hose.

Thoughts, anyone? Much appreciated!

 

Let me google that for you

Just swap the relay from the other side of engine bay. See if it fixes your fan-always-on issue.

Or you could look at a wiring diagram and trace the circuit!!!!!

 

Yes, I could have just googled the question, but I was hoping for some more model specific guidance, like the relay swap idea. Which is brilliant, and I think it may have led me to the solution. I'll know in a couple of days.

Thanks!

 

I always forgot the spec (milliamps) for testing for current draw, so I also needed to read up on it again.

Like Pierce mentioned earlier in this guy's thread; you should to check the SIGNAL wire to the relay and see if it's being triggered to turn on by a short somewhere else in the circuit. I guess its possible for a relay to get stuck SHUT, but I haven't seen it in these cars. Since this is an amateur forum I will remind people (NOT anybody in particular) that it should only be triggered with the key on. If you have voltage at trigger wire with key off...afjkdjsaf;kjdfa;kdjsflkadjfl;kadjfls!

The other relay is used to power up the injectors. AKA radio interference relay. It goes without saying, but I will say it anyways because this is a noob forum , your car will NOT run with the relay removed from the other side! hahaa just in case....

 

[Pompous voice]How dare y..[/Pompous voice]

Just kidding. I appreciate the help.

 

You stated you unplugged your fan, but still had a battery drain. Did I not read this correctly? If you are providing the correct info, that tells me the fan ain't the battery drain. I highly doubt its a fan relay stuck in the closed position causing the battery drain.


Have you tried unplugging that relay and seeing if your battery still drains?

Another thing you could do is pop the cover off the fan relay and visually inspect if the relay is closing/opening/sticking/burned to all hell/whatever....

 

When I took out the relay for the swap, I found some damage. It looked like the relay had burned out. I've left the relay out, and the battery doesn't seem to be draining. A new one is on the way.

In other news, someone shattered a window in the car to get to the old GPS suction cupped to the windshield. So now I get to deal with that, too.

 

Well, took the door apart. Looks like putting a new window in should be a snap, almost literally. Still waiting on the relay. But since I pulled the relay, the battery has been holding charge well and it's never failed to start.

 

I scratched my replacement window glass dropping it in. Be careful. Pull all 4 door panels and grease all plastic tracks. Your windows will be faster and your motors will thank you.

I believe you that relay was burned, but pics??

Also curious to see voltage drop test results with the relay installed... too lazy?

 

Too lazy? Jeez. No, just too lacking in new relays. It hasn't arrived yet. I'm not even sure if they've shipped it yet.

 

I got the new relay. I reconnected the fan, put in the old relay, and the fan started up even though the engine was stone cold. Then I changed nothing besides swapping the new relay for the old, and the fan didn't run. And there was no drain overnight. I'm concluding that the relay was the problem. And since I get up at 3AM to head out of town, other research will have to wait. If that makes me lazy, so be it.