The 940 wagon (non-turbo) won't start. I suspect the ignition module, but will see if I have spark first. Should I check the codes? I understand the ignition systems came in 2 versions. The version I have has a conventional coil on the pass side strut area. Where is the ignition module as I can't seem to find wires to it if I have to replace it

Alos, the shifter is quite loose & the shifter is cracking. I have a new one but don't know how to replace it. Besides the shifter, what other parts do I need to make the shifting "exact" as before. i seem to remember there is a part(s) that wears out. Thanks

 

there's some bushings on the shift rod thats under the hump/tunnel, they make the shifter sloppy/loose when they wear out. you'll probably have to remove the center console, then disconnect that shift rod under the car, and unbolt the shifter from the top of the hump, and lift the whole assembly up to get at the shifter pivot and replace whatever part you're replacing. there's a wire up it too, for the OD button, thtas kinda fragile, so disconnect it and be careful with it. and the wire for the indicator light in the pivot box, too.

 

So the engine is turning but it will not start? Do you smell fuel at the tail pipe after cranking? If you smell gasoline by the tailpipe, the engine is getting fuel but is not getting a spark.

Is it wet out? Wet, damp days can cause your spark plug wires to arc and send the spark to nearby metal instead of your spark plugs. If it is damp and rainy you could try using WD-40 or WireDrier spray to try to get the moisture out of the wires. This is supposed to work. It actually hasn't worked for me yet though. It is still worth a try. The best bet, if the wires are old, would be to buy new spark plug a coil wires. If you are stuck and can't get to an auto parts store you can remove the spark plug and coil wires and bring them in the house to dry. Mark the distributor cap with the cylinder numbers so that they will go back on in the correct order. Since it only has 4 cylinders this is easy. Put the spark plug wires in a nice dry place. If you are brave you can even put them in your oven. Be warned, you might stink up you oven and your kitchen. Let them dry for a few hours. They try putting them back on and seeing if you can start the car now.

If you still have problems and think it is the ignition, you can check the ignition by unplugging the coil wire that goes to the big center terminal on the coil and replacing it with a spark plug wire. I usually have an old one. If you don't have a spare, you could use the number 1 spark plug wire. Plug one end of the spark plug wire into the center terminal of the coil. Attach a spark plug to the other end of the wire. Any spark plug will work for this check, you don't have to remove a plug if you have another one around. Put the metal threaded part of the spark plug on a metal part of the engine or chassis. You must do something to keep the plug from shaking around. Electrical tape or a cable tie can work. Then crank the engine. You should see a blue spark in the plug gap. If you have a spark, the ignition is good.

Now you have verified that you have a spark and the ignition is good. The next check is if the spark is getting to the spark plugs. Replace the coil wire on the coil. Now the number 1 spark plug wire should be connected to the distributor cap. The other end should be loose. Take a spark plug and place it into the spark plug boot on the number one spark plug wire. Place the threaded part of the spark plug and place it on a metal part of the engine or chassis. Crank the engine and look for a spark.

If there is a spark your ignition is good and you might have some other problem. Remember that an engine needs four thing in order to start and run. Fuel, air, ignition and compression. If you have a good spark, then look at the other three things for the possible cause. Usually, compression and air don't stop suddenly. The next culprit to look for would be fuel.

If you didn't get a spark at the plug, you could have a bad wire or a problem with the distributor. Distributors are simple, they are like a continuously rotating four way switch. One contact for each cylinder. Except that the rotor never actually touches the distributor posts. It only has to get close enough for the spark to jump the gap. Remove the distributor cap and make sure it is dry inside. There should be no oil, water or debris. Remove the rotor, making note of the direction that the rotor is pointing and clean the brass part of rotor with one or two swipes of a file. I sometimes use the stone on the steps to my house because I am too lazy to find a file and the stone works pretty good at removing the oxide build up that forms on the tip of the rotor. Next check the metal posts inside the distributor cap. Some build up of greenis white oxide is normal. Use a file, screwdriver or Dremel to clean the corrosion off the metal. If using a Dremel, be gentle. Look inside the center part of the distributor cap. There should be a black spring loaded contact there. Push against it with your finger. It should spring back easily. This part touches the center of the rotor. If it does not move easily, you need a new distributor cap. If it is OK, put the rotor back on. Put the distributor cap back on and try starting the engine again.

At this point, it should start up. If not check for a spark at the number 1 spark plug as above. If the distributor is working correctly, and you had a spark from the coil, it should start up.

Sorry for the long explanation. I hope this helps. Good luck.

 

according to the wiring diagrams, the ignition module is on the inside of the left fender just behind the headlight ?!? its been long enough and I've been looking at so many cars, hah, I don't remember. I have some nice pictures under the hood of my 92 turbo, but I don't see the power module. its not very big, smaller than a pack of playing cards.