Agreed to buy this 244
#1
Agreed to buy this 244
So I am new to the Volvo world and have agreed to purchase this 1982 244. It has 134,000 miles, odo still works, AC works, paint is original, as is the whole car. Spent most of it's life in California but has spent the last 6 years north of Green Bay. No rust! The owner will be delivering the car to me in a couple of weeks and I am really excited to get to know this car and begin tinkering!
#2
Nice looking car. What did you end up paying for it?
I would keep it all original, even the old radio. Maybe swap out the clock for the correct Tach. And she needs a clutch pedal pad. Give her a good buffing and waxing the help protect the paint. I love those rims, trim rings and center caps.
I would keep it all original, even the old radio. Maybe swap out the clock for the correct Tach. And she needs a clutch pedal pad. Give her a good buffing and waxing the help protect the paint. I love those rims, trim rings and center caps.
#3
Two new pedal pads are already ordered as well as everything needed for a complete tune-up.
I know that keeping a vehicle in as original condition as possible will ensure that the value stays as high as possible but I will do some slight modding (nothing drastic). In the near term, lowering (won't be cutting any springs though), all new bushings, sways front and rear, wheel and brake upgrades. I plan on keeping and tagging all original parts.
Long term - I will likely look into motor mods to increase the motivation a bit. Nothing crazy but perhaps 200-250hp will be the target. Will likely replace the front seats to something a bit more sporting as well. I'd like to add some round fogs up front too. I will be keeping the paint and will not likely tint the windows.
This will be a driver but not a daily - hopefully during non-summer months, I can drive to work a few times a week and then on weekends when I've got something fun to do.
My first choice was a coupe, then a wagon, and then the sedan but outside of a hand-crank sunroof, this met all my criteria in terms of prior ownership, condition, records, and having a third-pedal. I also did not want power windows or locks.
I see by your signature that you like German rides too. I am a long time Porsche guy (although I sold my last one two years ago - 968) and currently drive a 6-speed 135i (lowered and with a mild tune).
Thank you for your response. I see you are a regular here and I will be coming back often for help and advice!
I know that keeping a vehicle in as original condition as possible will ensure that the value stays as high as possible but I will do some slight modding (nothing drastic). In the near term, lowering (won't be cutting any springs though), all new bushings, sways front and rear, wheel and brake upgrades. I plan on keeping and tagging all original parts.
Long term - I will likely look into motor mods to increase the motivation a bit. Nothing crazy but perhaps 200-250hp will be the target. Will likely replace the front seats to something a bit more sporting as well. I'd like to add some round fogs up front too. I will be keeping the paint and will not likely tint the windows.
This will be a driver but not a daily - hopefully during non-summer months, I can drive to work a few times a week and then on weekends when I've got something fun to do.
My first choice was a coupe, then a wagon, and then the sedan but outside of a hand-crank sunroof, this met all my criteria in terms of prior ownership, condition, records, and having a third-pedal. I also did not want power windows or locks.
I see by your signature that you like German rides too. I am a long time Porsche guy (although I sold my last one two years ago - 968) and currently drive a 6-speed 135i (lowered and with a mild tune).
Thank you for your response. I see you are a regular here and I will be coming back often for help and advice!
#6
Those cars are interesting. I used to sell them used when I started the business 20 years ago, mainly 1989 to 1993 models that were in the marketplace.
They are durable, albeit heavy and inefficient. There is a classic following for them. The only significant complaint that I ever had was the woefully inadequate air conditioning in hot climates. Down here in Birmingham AL they were not adequate. Seeing that you are in New Orleans don't be surprised if the AC won't keep up on hot days.
They are durable, albeit heavy and inefficient. There is a classic following for them. The only significant complaint that I ever had was the woefully inadequate air conditioning in hot climates. Down here in Birmingham AL they were not adequate. Seeing that you are in New Orleans don't be surprised if the AC won't keep up on hot days.
#7
#8
Thanks for the feedback Pierce. This car is the 2.1 liter and my understanding is these motors produced about 100hp or so. No doubt doubling the HP will require a fair amount of work and modification but could also be done a number of different ways.
Any motor mods will not be done soon as I want to do many other things to the car before delving into a motor project. I also just want to enjoy the car in the early stages of ownership while I learn about their quirks, strengths, and weaknesses.
I think it is a bit comical how excited I am to become a brick owner as I have been in the sports car and racing world most of my adult life (been around and driven my fair share of exotics and race cars) but I'm giddy about buying an old, boxy, slow Volvo!
Thanks again for the input.
Any motor mods will not be done soon as I want to do many other things to the car before delving into a motor project. I also just want to enjoy the car in the early stages of ownership while I learn about their quirks, strengths, and weaknesses.
I think it is a bit comical how excited I am to become a brick owner as I have been in the sports car and racing world most of my adult life (been around and driven my fair share of exotics and race cars) but I'm giddy about buying an old, boxy, slow Volvo!
Thanks again for the input.
#9
the best baseline to a faster car would be to drop a B230FT in it, complete with ECU, ICU, and wiring harnesses, from a low mileage wrecked 1994-1995 940 turbo. THEN go wild with stage II, stage III enhancements, but you'll find the 160 BHP and 200 ft-lbs of the B230FT will make that 240 go pretty good as-is. you'll need to change the flywheel out for one that has the LH 2.4 timing divots if you want to keep your existing M46 4-speed+OD, otherwise swap in the automatic from the 940T too.
#10
#11
the best baseline to a faster car would be to drop a B230FT in it, complete with ECU, ICU, and wiring harnesses, from a low mileage wrecked 1994-1995 940 turbo. THEN go wild with stage II, stage III enhancements, but you'll find the 160 BHP and 200 ft-lbs of the B230FT will make that 240 go pretty good as-is. you'll need to change the flywheel out for one that has the LH 2.4 timing divots if you want to keep your existing M46 4-speed+OD, otherwise swap in the automatic from the 940T too.
#12
if the turbo engine is 1990+, its LH 2.4 (*), and that uses a crank position sensor which requires timing notches on the flexplate (automatic) or flywheel (manual), which a pre-1989 non-turbo transmission won't have. also the bell housing of the -1988 transmission will need a notch ground into it for said crank position sensor.
past that, the B230FT should just bolt up to your transmission. preferred transmissions for the FT are AW71 automatics or M46 4+OD sticks. while I've never had one, I've heard the M47 5-speed (non-OD) sticks aren't up to the torque of the turbo. the AW71 is almost identical to the AW70 used on most non-turbo automatics, but its beefier.
you'll want almost the entire engine compartment worth of stuff from the donor car... intercooler, air cleaner, exhaust manifold with turbo and down pipe, wiring harnesses. the ICU (ignition control unit) and ECU on LH2.4 cars are mounted behind the firewall, in the passenger compartment, so you'll need the wiring to them, too. I would want to have the wiring diagrams for the donor car AND the 240 so you can match up wiring differences (740/940 have a completely different fuse panel than 240's, but they have much of the same functionality). the only sane way to do a transplant like this is to have both cars side by side for the duration, so you can match up stuff.
note, I've never actually done an engine transplant like this. its a lot of work. me, I'd rather have a nice late model 940 turbo wagon
* to clarify. LH 2.4 was used in 1989+ non-turbos and 1990+ turbos. LH2.2 and other older designs used a hall sensor in the distributor for timing, while LH 2.4 uses the crank position sensor for timing.
past that, the B230FT should just bolt up to your transmission. preferred transmissions for the FT are AW71 automatics or M46 4+OD sticks. while I've never had one, I've heard the M47 5-speed (non-OD) sticks aren't up to the torque of the turbo. the AW71 is almost identical to the AW70 used on most non-turbo automatics, but its beefier.
you'll want almost the entire engine compartment worth of stuff from the donor car... intercooler, air cleaner, exhaust manifold with turbo and down pipe, wiring harnesses. the ICU (ignition control unit) and ECU on LH2.4 cars are mounted behind the firewall, in the passenger compartment, so you'll need the wiring to them, too. I would want to have the wiring diagrams for the donor car AND the 240 so you can match up wiring differences (740/940 have a completely different fuse panel than 240's, but they have much of the same functionality). the only sane way to do a transplant like this is to have both cars side by side for the duration, so you can match up stuff.
note, I've never actually done an engine transplant like this. its a lot of work. me, I'd rather have a nice late model 940 turbo wagon
* to clarify. LH 2.4 was used in 1989+ non-turbos and 1990+ turbos. LH2.2 and other older designs used a hall sensor in the distributor for timing, while LH 2.4 uses the crank position sensor for timing.
#13
if the turbo engine is 1990+, its LH 2.4 (*), and that uses a crank position sensor which requires timing notches on the flexplate (automatic) or flywheel (manual), which a pre-1989 non-turbo transmission won't have. also the bell housing of the -1988 transmission will need a notch ground into it for said crank position sensor.
past that, the B230FT should just bolt up to your transmission. preferred transmissions for the FT are AW71 automatics or M46 4+OD sticks. while I've never had one, I've heard the M47 5-speed (non-OD) sticks aren't up to the torque of the turbo. the AW71 is almost identical to the AW70 used on most non-turbo automatics, but its beefier.
you'll want almost the entire engine compartment worth of stuff from the donor car... intercooler, air cleaner, exhaust manifold with turbo and down pipe, wiring harnesses. the ICU (ignition control unit) and ECU on LH2.4 cars are mounted behind the firewall, in the passenger compartment, so you'll need the wiring to them, too. I would want to have the wiring diagrams for the donor car AND the 240 so you can match up wiring differences (740/940 have a completely different fuse panel than 240's, but they have much of the same functionality). the only sane way to do a transplant like this is to have both cars side by side for the duration, so you can match up stuff.
note, I've never actually done an engine transplant like this. its a lot of work. me, I'd rather have a nice late model 940 turbo wagon
* to clarify. LH 2.4 was used in 1989+ non-turbos and 1990+ turbos. LH2.2 and other older designs used a hall sensor in the distributor for timing, while LH 2.4 uses the crank position sensor for timing.
past that, the B230FT should just bolt up to your transmission. preferred transmissions for the FT are AW71 automatics or M46 4+OD sticks. while I've never had one, I've heard the M47 5-speed (non-OD) sticks aren't up to the torque of the turbo. the AW71 is almost identical to the AW70 used on most non-turbo automatics, but its beefier.
you'll want almost the entire engine compartment worth of stuff from the donor car... intercooler, air cleaner, exhaust manifold with turbo and down pipe, wiring harnesses. the ICU (ignition control unit) and ECU on LH2.4 cars are mounted behind the firewall, in the passenger compartment, so you'll need the wiring to them, too. I would want to have the wiring diagrams for the donor car AND the 240 so you can match up wiring differences (740/940 have a completely different fuse panel than 240's, but they have much of the same functionality). the only sane way to do a transplant like this is to have both cars side by side for the duration, so you can match up stuff.
note, I've never actually done an engine transplant like this. its a lot of work. me, I'd rather have a nice late model 940 turbo wagon
* to clarify. LH 2.4 was used in 1989+ non-turbos and 1990+ turbos. LH2.2 and other older designs used a hall sensor in the distributor for timing, while LH 2.4 uses the crank position sensor for timing.
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