HI I'm trying to do this as simply as possible.
I have no tester, and I have read all of the threads related to this. I have no battery light at the moment.
So from what I've read; If I have the red wire connected correctly... Then,as long as I ground the red wire, The dash battery light should come on correct?
So if I just 'cap' cap the old wire. and just connect my new wire to both sides of the gray box red wires.. then I should be covered either way, and not have any shorts since it's all one circuit.
Am I right ?

I appreciate any feedback. Being in another country with car trouble is very nerve wracking...

 

Yes, The light will come on if the bulb is OK, fuse 13 is good, and no other problems exist with the ignition switch or other wiring.

 

I bundled the two red wires from each side of the gray box together with the new wire running to the alternator. still no light when i turn key on... The light had been working recently... Seems like this should have worked... but no real way to test any of this.. Not sure if I can make it 60 miles home with electronic fuel injectors eating power from my battery... Local Volvo mechanic "has 14 cars lined up" My home Volvo mechanics is 60 miles and a border crossing away... Need a miracle

 

If you touch your new red wire to any other ground (negative battery post, etc) with the key in position 2 - does the light come on?

Or this:
The new red wire installed on the alternator, add a temporary jumper wire from the alt case to the fender - does the light come on?

This will tell you if the alternator ground strap is bad.

 

no light comes on using either method. I even ran a wire from a grounding lug to the body and still no light... as I said it starts and runs.. But when under load ( lights, fan, seat heaters, defroster) it slowly runs down, Lights dim and fuel needle drops slowly... I'm thinking I need to get it to someone who CAN figure it out...
I have the use of an old large schmacher 2/24/200 charger, But it doesn't seem to read the charge level. I'm worried about overcharging it.. If I max out the charge on the battery is it likely make the 60 mile trip if I don't use the accessories ? is there any way to measure the charge amount?
I looked at the charger manual online and no reference to it.
And thanks for your nursing me through this. I'm really having a rough time with this....

 

Have you checked fuse 13? Do the turn signals work?

 

fuse 13 is good, turn signals work. and I'm still wondering about the gray box connection.. I'm hoping that was the best way to go.
I just need to make it 60 miles across the border Then I'd be ok..

 

There they are. I need to figure out a way to embed them into the forum as the pictures live on my server.

 

Thanks I saw the pics, But I still can't tell which side to connect runs to the battery light for sure, You said "the round end" or Bullet end of the small red wire connector and remove it from the drivers side of the Gray box ? and then connect to that wire and then run the new wire to the ' small red wire clip on the alternator and then just abandon the passenger side or female side of the small red wire connector at the gray box and at the alt ?
And Thank you !

 

[Someone please instruct me how to embed images into the forum]

Here are two hand drawings to illustrate. I use "driver's side" instead of "right" or "left" because "right" or "left" are subjective. The "driver's side" never moves. I'm sorry it has proven confusing in this scenario and hope the illustrations will help.

Figure 1 is how the car is wired. If you open the gray box, you will see that the tip of the red wire has a little cap on it (which I have described as a bullet).

Figure 2 is the runaround I am suggesting. It's difficult to route the wire as the original one (illustrated in purple). Like my tape job?