any way to change trunk shock w/out volvo tool?
#1
#2
Once you ease off the clip on the body end, the socket can be foced off the ball, then remove the strut from the truck end. Installation is reverse--attach to trunk, then force socket and ball together at body end. There shouldn't be a need to compress the strut; just open the trunk to suit.
#3
what model of car? I've swapped tailgate struts on 740/940 wagons and on 850 wagons, didn't need any special tool. the 850 ones are hidden behind the plastic trim.
the replacement 740/940 ones had different ends than the originals, the originals had like a wire spring clip which had to be removed (small needlenose, IIRC), while the replacements had a spring clip made from flat stock and just snapped on.
the replacement 740/940 ones had different ends than the originals, the originals had like a wire spring clip which had to be removed (small needlenose, IIRC), while the replacements had a spring clip made from flat stock and just snapped on.
#4
Sorry, need to have this as my sig. below
1992 240 sedan auto b230f?
mcintorb....I believe you, but believe me, after doing "almost" everything to this car, I find the fcp replacement shock virtually unable to compress...and I mean leaning my 210 lbs on it...
to get it in the slots will need compression
getting the old one out seems to be do-able after futzing with it...maybe cause it's already poofed out it's strength
I just don't want to remove the old to find the new won't go on....but maybe just typing this leads me to a dangerous idea! Naw, not the jack at an angle inside the trunk (1st thought) but maybe a hose clamp on either side with a bolt to tighten them up att'd?
If I come up with something, will post...i see millions coming in
1992 240 sedan auto b230f?
mcintorb....I believe you, but believe me, after doing "almost" everything to this car, I find the fcp replacement shock virtually unable to compress...and I mean leaning my 210 lbs on it...
to get it in the slots will need compression
getting the old one out seems to be do-able after futzing with it...maybe cause it's already poofed out it's strength
I just don't want to remove the old to find the new won't go on....but maybe just typing this leads me to a dangerous idea! Naw, not the jack at an angle inside the trunk (1st thought) but maybe a hose clamp on either side with a bolt to tighten them up att'd?
If I come up with something, will post...i see millions coming in
#8
as a '92 owner...it has gas filled shocks for trunk
VERy hard to compress...new shock impossible without tools
can maybe peel out old shock...will put new one in with hose clamps and major vice-grip tool...not your ordinary vg
local pullapart has volvo up on blocks....no way to remove wheels without major air socket...funny, they don't pull for you either and need 300' electric cord to reach car . They aren't in the "people pleasing" business!
VERy hard to compress...new shock impossible without tools
can maybe peel out old shock...will put new one in with hose clamps and major vice-grip tool...not your ordinary vg
local pullapart has volvo up on blocks....no way to remove wheels without major air socket...funny, they don't pull for you either and need 300' electric cord to reach car . They aren't in the "people pleasing" business!
#9
#10
#11
Virgos occasionally show up on CL in the SFBA but often for far too much money.
I got lucky and scored a complete set of straight Hydras in pretty good shape (just a minimal amount of curb rash) for my 745T on CL, for a very reasonable price. our 240 still has the Coronas it came with.
hydra:
corona:
I agree, virgos are the best looking rims for a 240...
I got lucky and scored a complete set of straight Hydras in pretty good shape (just a minimal amount of curb rash) for my 745T on CL, for a very reasonable price. our 240 still has the Coronas it came with.
hydra:
corona:
I agree, virgos are the best looking rims for a 240...
#12
trunk damper/strut install
Everyone seemed to have had it so easy replacing their trunk dampers/dampners/struts. Maybe I had a goofy fitting boot bonnet?
Anyway, for anyone that may have the same problem I finally found the solution...and may be useful for other apps...
Wrap the lower and upper shaft of the strut with a hose clamp (it will take some adjustments before you then ) grab the bolts (they need to be parallel)
of the hose clamp with channel locks...squeeze, place into position, let go.
I do mechanical work for a living and wondered how idiotic i was reading all other posts that stated how they opened up the trunk "all the way" and inserted struts...mine was no go like that...at all.
Anyway, for anyone that needs it, here'tis
Anyway, for anyone that may have the same problem I finally found the solution...and may be useful for other apps...
Wrap the lower and upper shaft of the strut with a hose clamp (it will take some adjustments before you then ) grab the bolts (they need to be parallel)
of the hose clamp with channel locks...squeeze, place into position, let go.
I do mechanical work for a living and wondered how idiotic i was reading all other posts that stated how they opened up the trunk "all the way" and inserted struts...mine was no go like that...at all.
Anyway, for anyone that needs it, here'tis
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cn90
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09-04-2010 10:38 AM