Just got done fitting a newer engine harness and fired the old bird up in several months. It started right up however, started to act as if it was running on 3cyl. I put a new turbo on and exhaust and replaced all brakes/calipers/rotors and drv sht supports. After checking the plugs and wires, which were good before the work started BTW, I removed one injector wire to notice a change while running; when #1 injector wire was unpluged, the engine didn't even die down a bit, while the others noticably idled the engine down. I don't have a test light, so I took my fluke meter and got 12v dc at the injector. My ? are these: Being that I have 12v at the dead injector, is this unit bad? Also to add, when Iam cruising, it seems to smooth out a bit to where you can drive it. I put a bott of Techron in already. Can this make the injector come back to life or am I better off replacing all 4 injectors? Even if the techron works , are these injectors about to expire? Car has 159k. What about the DR. injectors via ebay for 159$ new set. Anyone have these?Any input is appreciated, thanks!!

 

You should make sure you have signal with a Noid light to the injector.
The computer Pluses Ground to activate the injector.

You can replace the injector with a used one.

If you are going to buy new I would replace all 4.

 

My son will bring this tool home to me tonite. I let the wife drive it to work and see if that changes things. According to the scematic, I see how they are wired, thanks!

 

Noid light confirmed the open on the green side towards the ballast resistors. Cut away the new-used harness I got via ebay and found the cut wire. So, I would advise someone thinking to replace an engine harness not to save a few buck and get a used one, just get a remaned. one via Dave's Volvo harness. Funny thing; it ran ok for 60 mi on 3 cyl. It runs like new now. Every wire in the old harness had disentegrated insulation. How the hell it ran before I will never know.

 

Volvo wasn't the only victim of disintegrating wiring harness' in the late 80's and early 90's. I used to own a 95 Mercedes E320 that was plagued with the same thing. I'm not sure when Volvo rectified theirs but it took Mercedes until 97 to finally get one that wouldn't crumble from years of use and heat. Glad you found the problem!!

Dale

Here's a pic of the cracking wire insulation on the throttle body where the wires went into the circuit board. It cost me literally 100's of bucks and tons of time to do everything myself...

 

I second that with a big horahh!!. I have an 82 380 sel that is my daily driver and have been liking europen cars since. Yes, the early 90's 140 had that bull**** wire harness issue too. I passed up on a couple of 140 MB's just for that. If I had known the Volvo was the same, I would have donated it and saved about 2.5K$ spent in it so far. My newst issue is with the center driveshaft bearing I replaced. I put it in backwards and lost one of the rings. When you get on the throttle from a dead stop, the driveshaft bucks. I lifted the car and noticed a good amt of play in the new bearing and housing assembly. Anyone have a good recommendation how to firm up the bearing? Or, is the ebay unit I bought ****-quality. I had to purchase the 65mm bearing separately from the rubber housing.

 

Soulds like the rubber housing isn't tight enough.

 

Yeah, and it is brand new? My fault; should have ordered it directly via mySwedish parts.com and been through withit. Why is the new housing so flimsy any way?

 

Maybe you ordered the wrong one to match the bearing you have?

 

Must have tech. These are the the things that make us learn.

 

Try calling them and see if they can help you through it.