Hello all,

I just purchaced my first volvo. Its an 86 240DL sedan with a leaky Brake Junction Block. I found one here
https://www.ipdusa.com/products/5136...saAssZEALw_wcB

Does anyone have any tips to share on how to get at this thing? It looks like its best to get at from up top but I havent studied the situation too hard yet. Any tips/info would really be helpful!

Thanks!

 

I found that it's easier to get at it from underneath.

Another note, I tried the aftermarket part you linked to and it leaked right out of the box so I had to return it. I ended up purchasing the OEM part. It was much more expensive but it didn't leak.

 

Thanks! It looks like its going to be a fun job. Bleeding the brakes should be interesting too, Ive never seen front calipers with 3 lines to each caliper. I found the bleeding order online. I dont have that special volvo bleeder but im guessing the old pedal pushing method will do the same job.

 

1984 VOLVO 245 DL
BRAKE LINE JUNCTION BLOCK REPLACEMENT

Hello Volvo wrenchers! I just replaced my brake junction block so, I thought I'd describe how I did it so others can get an idea of what is involved.

MY "CLENCH WRENCH"
I once had to replace a radiator that had transmission oil cooler line fittings. The fittings were probably tightened 30 years before. They were so tight, my line wrench began to round a fitting. I needed a different strategy. I "Googled" it! What came up was a wrench once made by Craftsman and still available on ebay called "The Clench Wrench." It WORKS people! So, for the 11 mm line fittings on the Volvo 240 try them FIRST with a 10mm to 18mm (3/8" to 11/16" #42308) Craftsman Clench Wrench! I am currently avoiding COVID19 and installed a used junction block from my spare parts. The Clench Wrench broke loose all the fittings on both junction blocks easily and without damage.

R&R BRAKE JUNCTION BLOCK
One gets access to the Volvo 240 brake junction block through the left wheel well. Be sure the car is safely on jack stands then remove the left front wheel.

First locate the junction block and the two lines coming into it from the other side of the car. These lines come from the right front caliper's upper and lower chambers.

Put a pan below to catch brake fluid. The right caliper line fittings are easy to get to from the left wheel well. When you loosen the two fittings, brake fluid will start dripping out. After the fluid has drained, completely unscrew the fittings. In general, try not to bend any brake lines. Keeping them unbent will later help get the fittings in the replacement block.

Photo 1 shows the first two fittings unscrewed.

Next, trace the two lines coming down from the master cylinder to the junction block and work on them.

You will have to pull the two lines first loosened out of the way a little to get a (clench) wrench on the line fittings from the master cylinder. You can also remove the junction block's 10mm mounting bolt and push the block slightly in from the wheel well to get a better "bite" on the master cylinder line fittings from behind the frame.

Open the hood and break loose the two fittings on the master cylinder. Unscrew the two fittings and completely REMOVE the two BRAKE LINES connecting the master cylinder to the junction block. This will open access to more fittings down at the junction block.

Photo 2 shows the two lines to the master cylinder removed.

With the master cylinder lines now gone, break loose and remove the (top) fittings on each side of the block--those that go to the left and right rear calipers. These fittings are on each side of the electrical switch connector. If the block moves around too much, put the 10mm mounting bolt back in to hold it.

No picture--no room!

There are finally two difficult to reach fittings close to the wheel well opening. Their lines go to the left front caliper upper and lower ports.

Remove the 10mm bolt holding the junction block to the car. Pull the block into the wheel well about an inch so you can access last two fittings. Break loose and unscrew the two fittings. Carefully remove the wire connector and remove the junction block.

Photo 3

Try to clean every fitting as much as possible. I repeatedly sprayed them with brake cleaner and absorbed the runoff with paper towels.

Photo 4

Install the replacement block in the reverse order as described above. Be sure not to "cross thread" any fittings. Try first to screw fittings in by hand. Reconnect the wire to the switch.

Best wishes!
VolcanoView242

Currently:
1984 245
1983 242

Previously:
1990 740 DOHC
1965 Saab 95
1972 Saab Sonnett
1974 Alfa Romeo Alfetta
1972 VW Super Beetle
1977 Corvette L82
1967 Triumph Spitfire
1969 DZ302 Z28
1957 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spyder
Etc.

Photo 1 Unscrew the fittings connected to right front.

Photo 2 Remove the two lines from the Master Cylinder.

Photo 3 After removing lines on both sides of failure switch connector. Remove mounting bolt and pull block about an inch into left fender well. Then remove fittings to left front.

Photo 4 To keep clean, I sprayed all the fittings with brake cleaner and caught the runoff with paper towels.

 

also handy to have a set of "flare nut" wrenches.

 

yeah, i was gonna say, tahts the correct tool for ALL pipe fittings...

 

Just remember kids, no job is worth doing unless you get a chance to buy more tools :-)