Google is of no help. I just picked up this 1985 Volvo 240 and the thing runs like a top, clutch pedal has pressure, but I can shift it into any gear with the clutch in or out and it goes no where. Guy I got it from said he thinks its the slave cylinder, but I have not found anything online confirming this. Any input or thoughts would be helpful as I am trying to get this thing back on the road!

Pictures of the volvo

 

and if it helps any, I dont think this is a hydraulic clutch, there is a cable running from the pedal to the side of the transmission...

 

if the clutch was broken such that it was always engaged, you wouldn't be able to shift it into gear if the engine was running without a whole lot of gear gnashing. if the clutch was somehow stuck open, the gearbox would feel really notchy, and be hard to shift into gears, just like if the engine was stopped and the car wasn't rolling

block the front tires, jack one back wheel up in the air and put it on a jack stand (put the stand just forward of the wheel, under the frame rail). put it in neutral, parking brake off. spin that wheel by hand, and verify visually that the driveshaft is turning at the back of the transmission.. if the drive shaft is NOT turning, it may be a broken differential. thats a Dana 30, very robust differential, same basic unit as used on many Jeeps for their front axle. if the axle is turning, verify that its turning the output shaft of the transmission and if so, then the problem has to be in the tranny or clutch....

now put it in 1st gear, and do the same, the wheel *shouldn't* spin, the gearbox should stop it, but of course, thats not happening. find the shift linkage rod underneath the car, it goes into the top of the back of the transmission, have someone cycle it through the gear positions, verify that the rod is moving in/out and rotating back and forth. if all that is the case, then the problem is likely inside the transmission or the clutch...

hey, is that a real 5 speed, or is it a 4 speed with an electric overdrive (button or switch on top of stickshift)? not sure which an '85 would be... the old M46 4 speed + OD was a stronger setup, but more complicated. the later M47 5-speed was somewhat weaker. if this is a 4-speed + OD, then its possible the problem is mechanical inside the OD. the OD is a planetary reduction gear, its either 1:1 or its a step-down gearing (so its really an underdrive, hah!). its a Laycock J unit, pretty much the same as was used in british sports cars of the early 1970s. any failures of the OD control circuit would just mean it was either never or always in OD, none of them can create a 'neutral' like you're experiencing.

 

I did some tinkering today. I checked all connections for the shifter and the clutch cable. All were good. I then put the rear end up in the air. Turning the wheels made the drive line spin. When I put it into gear, it was a little harder to turn but I could still turn it with the engine shut off. This to me seems like a shot clutch. It is a 4 speed with electronic over drive. I am still getting used to all this stuff, as I have been into the volkswagen scene for over 5 years now. I can diagnose anything on a vw by just feeling or hearing it. These though are something I will have to learn.

 

sounds like its time to drop the tranny then and inspect the clutch. a shot clutch usually slips badly under throttle, but still gives you at least SOME motive force.

as trannies go, its a fairly easy one to remove. IIRC, its something like: unbolt the drive shaft from the output flange and swing it out of the way and tie it up so it doesnt drop, disconnect the shift linkage, disconnect the clutch cable, unplug the OD cable, unbolt the clutch from the engine, and unbolt the cross brace that supports the tranny, pull it back off the clutch spline and it should drop right out (put a jack under it first, duh!).

the OD unit stays attached to the tranny, they share oil.