Check Engine codes for 1992 Volvo 240

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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 07:54 PM
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Default Check Engine codes for 1992 Volvo 240

It is with great shame for my lack of mechanical abilities that I post this question: How do I gather the code(s) for the check engine light on my 92 240 wagon?

I found the "code box", but the wire into the hole labelled 2 and pushed the button; the LED immediately came on solid for as long as I held the button (1-15 seconds). I took the car to Pep boys, who would only sell me a $150 reader, O'Reilly's had nothing, and Autozone had a scanner I could use (obd ii) but it was not a match for the "code box" under the hood.

I've found a list of what the codes mean, and searched the internets for how to get the codes but have come up with nothing. The following former forum threads don't mention how to get the codes, but lead me to believe they are easy to retrieve.

https://volvoforums.com/archive/thre...0-73973-1.html
https://volvoforums.com/archive/thre...s-78528-1.html

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks (again),

Mark
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 08:15 PM
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Default RE: Check Engine codes for 1992 Volvo 240

http://www.troublecodes.net/Volvo/
Follow that link to learn how.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 08:44 PM
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Default RE: Check Engine codes for 1992 Volvo 240

1-2-3 (#2) and 2-2-4 (#6), both coolant temp sensor signal. The temperature gauge shows that everything is running OK though. I'll look for the sensor and see about replacing it.

Thanks again!
 
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Old Oct 24, 2008 | 10:24 PM
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Default RE: Check Engine codes for 1992 Volvo 240

There is a different sensor for the guage.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 12:11 PM
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The saga continues...

So about a week ago I started experiencing hard starts when my 240 was cold. I checked the egine codes and found 1-2-3 appearing (but not 2-2-4). So I ordered another ECT / collant temperature sensor.

I one from Üro Parts on RockAuto for $12 + shipping. After installing the new sensor and disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes, I still have the hard starts and am now seeing both 1-2-3 and 2-2-4. :'(

So do you think that I got a dective or a non-matching part, or that there is a problem somewhere else - perhaps the wiring. Any ideas on the best way to troubleshoot this?

Thanks in advance (again),

Mark

PS. While I'm not really mechanically inclined enough to give good advice in general, I'm happy to snap any pictures of my stock 1992 240 wagon for reference if anyone ever needs them.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 04:04 PM
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Are you sure that you got the correct sensor. The coolant temp sensor is located under the intake manifold and is a PIA to remove and replace. On the other hand the coolant temp sensor for the temp gage is still located under the intake manifold but can easily be removed. It is closer to the thermostat housing. Look at it this way if the sensor you removed was easy to do you got the wrong one. Hopefully someone here has a picture.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 04:56 PM
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Oh, mine was a major pain to change. It was toward the back on the right side (facing the engine). Under the third intake. I've attached a couple of grainy pictures from my cell phone.
 
Attached Thumbnails  Check Engine codes for 1992 Volvo 240-ect2_small.jpg    Check Engine codes for 1992 Volvo 240-ect_small2.jpg  
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Old Jan 9, 2011 | 05:58 PM
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You got the correct one then. The ect is by the third runner (from the front) the gauge sender is by runner 2. It's equally possible that the connector/wiring atthe sender is at fault. The "potting" used on the end of the connector has a nasty habit of disintegrating. On my 89, I ended up splicing in about 6" of new wire and a new connector; the o.e. harness was just short enough to put a bit of strain on the connector.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 09:26 PM
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Hi Just read your problem with coolant sensor. I just purchased a senor from auto wharehouse.com for $34 shipped in two days. I own a 92 740 with smae tyoe of readings and having a hard time trying to repalce sensor ... any ideas I was thinking of removing the intake manifold after a while.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2011 | 10:09 PM
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I've done it twice and was able to leave the manifold on both times. That's not to say it isn't a major pain. I had to use a box wrench and a long socket and many, many turns. I have average sized hands, if yours are anything bigger than that you may be out of luck.
 
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Old Mar 23, 2011 | 10:29 PM
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Default Coolant Sensor

Thanks for the info I'll let you know how I make out .... It's presently snowing raining up here..... nuts@bolts
 
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Old Mar 25, 2011 | 09:37 PM
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Mark, Thanks for the info will make an attempt this weekend. will keep you posted on how I make out.
 
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 11:23 PM
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Howdy all! Just to close the loop on this, I'd chintzed on the sensor and got what I paid for. I bought a Uro/Üro for $12 somewhere and it must have been DOA. I bought a Bosch (OEM) for $20 and that did the trick. Lesson : Don't buy cheap sensors, especially when they're a pain to replace.

BTW, I found a 3/4 long socket fit over the plug while still gripping the sensor. It took me about 15 minutes to change this time.
 
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Old Apr 5, 2011 | 12:40 PM
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I love happy endings! Well done!
 
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