clogged windshield washer ports
Alas, my 1988 740 Turbo Wagon has prostate problems. The T-valve that connected the main line to the windshield squirters fell apart with age recently. The pump seems to be working fine, but now that I've replaced the T-valve, I have just one of the four squirters showing a little dribble when I try to clean the windshield.
I've tried reaming the outlets with a needle, and ran a fine wire down them to get farther in. I used a syringe to both pull and push fluid through the tubes, but to no avail.
Anyone have a hint on what I do next? It seems as though I'd have to disassemble the whole hood to disconnect the 2-squirter turrets from their hoses.
Thanks in advance.
chas
I've tried reaming the outlets with a needle, and ran a fine wire down them to get farther in. I used a syringe to both pull and push fluid through the tubes, but to no avail.
Anyone have a hint on what I do next? It seems as though I'd have to disassemble the whole hood to disconnect the 2-squirter turrets from their hoses.
Thanks in advance.
chas
-disconnect all lines from T-fitting
-trigger washer pump so as to flush line from pump to T-fitting
-probe nozzles as best you can with fine wire. I've used an old spark plug gapping wire set!
-using a can of compressed air with plastic tube (or air gun with rubber tip), blow thru exit end of nozzle to back flush nozzle/nozzle line
-reassemble & go have a cold one (or two if it's hot)
-trigger washer pump so as to flush line from pump to T-fitting
-probe nozzles as best you can with fine wire. I've used an old spark plug gapping wire set!
-using a can of compressed air with plastic tube (or air gun with rubber tip), blow thru exit end of nozzle to back flush nozzle/nozzle line
-reassemble & go have a cold one (or two if it's hot)
Thanks, folks, for the help. I finally decided to spend almost $20, and bought two new squirter heads and new 3-way valve from IPD. (cheapest I've ever gotten by with at IPD!)
Looking at the heads, they have a stalk with barbs on it. Looks easy enough to just push into the hole left by the prior occupant, after attaching the tubing. But it looks quite tricky to pull out the old ones; I don't mind destroying them, but don't want to damage the sheet metal, and there doesn't seem to be access from underneath. Any hints?
thanks in advance...
chas
Looking at the heads, they have a stalk with barbs on it. Looks easy enough to just push into the hole left by the prior occupant, after attaching the tubing. But it looks quite tricky to pull out the old ones; I don't mind destroying them, but don't want to damage the sheet metal, and there doesn't seem to be access from underneath. Any hints?
thanks in advance...
chas
[8D] Let me answer my own question. I was a bit intimidated by the prospect (can you tell I don't do major engine work, much less minor things like replacing the squirters?), but a helpful neighbor dropped by and we figured it out together. Turns out the two barbs actually fit into essentially a keyhole arrangement, meaning one lifts up the squirter enough to see where the keyholes are, rotates the device to be in the right place, and kind of pries and twists at the same time.
I followed the advice above and flushed lines, and some nasty stuff came out from the t-valve that had crumbled from age.
It really is satisfying seeing these powerful streams hitting the windshield, after 19 years of gradual clogging.
I can now see how much satisfaction urologists must have in their work. (sorry, I'm an old guy of 60....)
I followed the advice above and flushed lines, and some nasty stuff came out from the t-valve that had crumbled from age.
It really is satisfying seeing these powerful streams hitting the windshield, after 19 years of gradual clogging.
I can now see how much satisfaction urologists must have in their work. (sorry, I'm an old guy of 60....)
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