How do I remove the trim from the inside of the rear window on an 850 wagon?

The windshield washer squirts from the filter, so I need to expose the hose running inside the rear window trim and unclog or replace it.

 

Are you talking about the entire inside trim with the third brake light?

Its all held on by clips. Remove the cover over the third light so you dont damage it then get a grip on the top of the panel and give a good sharp tug towards the front of the car or best if you have a panel popper to get inbetween the window and clips that run across the top. Once those are loose you need to pull the panel out just far enough to clear the metal framework behind it because your next set of clips pop out in a downward fashion, not quite 90 degrees but more like60 degrees.

This is a pretty probable chance some of the clips wont survive so be willing or able to locate replacements.

 

The hose enters & runs across the top, so I'd prefer to just pop off the top, if possible.

It seems that the plastic trim is all one piece.

Must I do this sitting in the car with the tailgate closed, or can it be managed with the tailgate open & overhead?

Also the gasket on the car body at the top of the opening for the tailgate is coming off; what kind of glue should I use to stick it back on?

 

OK I got the trim off. The hoses are clear, and the squirt nozzle is clear.

I discovered a check valve located in the hose just above the rear speaker. I can blow thru it towards the nozzle, but not towards "downstream."

I disassembled it, and the (latex ?) diaphragm is partly "rotted" but seems intact enough. Possible the glue used to adhere it to the piston has aged, it is dark brown & crumbly in one spot.

I could try to replace it with a piece of a latex glove

The filter does pass liquid, although I can see it has a lot of gunk in it.

So what part is the problem?

Also, the molded-in diretional arrow on the check valve points the wrong way. I can blow from the point towards the base of the arrow. Arrows should indicate direction of flow.

The squirter has worked in the past, so I know the check valve was not assembled backwards.

 

The valve is probably actually an anti-siphon pressure relief valve.

I tried putting a piece of latex glove in front of the diaphram (which is penetrated & I don't think seals properly) but then I could not blow or suck thru either end. I think the diaphragm must have to be attached to the spring piston to get pulled back away, and the piece of glove is just stuck in the "in" position.

What glue could I used to attach latex to this diaphragm...

Until someone tells me the part number for this thing.

Why did they install this valve in such an awkward place? It could easily have been a few inches away where your fingers can fit.

OK, I'm not seeing this part here:
http://auto-parts.fcpgroton.com/wind...asher-valve--2

They seem to have T fittings with this valve as a part of it, but no in-line versions.

 

But I don't see how the failure of that valve could prevent the fluid from passing thru the valve body.

A broken diaphragm might allow it to leak out at that point -- but I don't see any signs of fluid residue in the car, or stains.

 

If you figure this out be sure to let us know what you find.

I have the same problem but unfortunately i haven't got around to tearing into yet...

 

I bought the T fitting, filled one leg with glue & capped it off & installed it. Seems to work fine now.