In order of severity.

1. I developed a sporadic miss around 1800-2400 rpms.. I had originally thought it was plug wires because that is pretty much the only thing in the ignition system that hasn't been replaced, and since it only seemed to happen while the engine was under a load. After letting the car idle for a while I took my mechanic buddy for a ride in it, and the car missed heavily from the release of the clutch to the end of the gear. But as soon as I turned the car of and turned it right back on, it will run fine for another little while.. So now i'm thinking something on the timing side of the ignition ex: Ignition Control module.
I went to the junkyard today to pick up another one and swap it out, and after doing so found that the car wouldn't start at all.. So I proceded to put my ICM back in and the car still won't start. I haven't been able to check to see if it's getting spark or not because I don't have a helper.. but any suggestions or comments would be greatly appreciated..

2. Does anyone know why my dome light won't turn off? I would assume that at least the drivers side door switch works seeing as how my chime turns of when I close the door. This is gettin insanely frustrating.. I would like to have a dome light that works!

Thanks for your time!

 

So I concluded that I am getting spark with the new ICM.. Does anyone know what the number on the sticker on the top of the ICM means? are they interchangable even if the numbers aren't the same? the one that I have doesn't have the same number on it that my old one has..

So now that I have spark I am assuming that the reason the car won't run is due to lack of fuel.. If I spray a little starting fluid in the TB it starts right up until the fluid is gone.. And I know i'm getting fuel to the rail, so now i'm thinking the injectors arent' firing. What directly controls the Fuel injectors? the ECM?
Could is be pure coinsidence that my ECM failed at the same time as my ICM??

 

ICU's are not automatically interchangeable; neither are ecu's. I will assume your sig pic is your car. So, we know it's an 86 through 93 245. 86-88 used LH2.2 Jetronic ignition. All the ecu's and icu's from these years are interchangeable. 89-93 were LH2.4 Jetronic. Beginning in 91, I believe, Volvo started sneaking in some LH3.1 models. The simplest way to tell them apart without removing kick panels and jotting down the comp numbers is to check the last three digits of the AMM. 007 is LH2.2, 016 is LH2.4 and I'm not positive about 3.1.
There are several possibilities on the fueling issue. Often the solution is as simple as a bad or corroded ground wire. The injectors ground through the two main bolts mounting the injector rail to the manifold. Too, there is a relay near wiper jug that can fail. A failing lift pump in the tank can cause similar issues; if it doesn't act up w/ a full tank that's usually a sign of a bad lift pump.
The fact that the car ran, be it poorly, until you swapped icu's, would lead a reasonable person to presume your problem lies there. If, by chance, you hooked up a 2.2 icu to your 2.4 system or vice versa, at the very least the incorrect icu is toast. I'd check all my wiring grounds very closely. Let us know what year the car is, too.

 

yea, I concluded that it was in fact a bad ICM.. Got a new one in there and it started right up.. On the down side.. it still has that miss that I described in the original thread.. But i'm going to replace the pluge wires and see what that does..

I greatly appreciate your attention to detail in your response, it has helped me out quite substantially!

I'll keep you posted! No pun intended!

 

"2. Does anyone know why my dome light won't turn off? I would assume that at least the drivers side door switch works seeing as how my chime turns of when I close the door. This is gettin insanely frustrating.. I would like to have a dome light that works![/QUOTE]

You may already have one; it just doesn't work like you think it should..
Dome light has 3 positions: one, it's on all the time, center position, it's off and the third position is on a timer. It's supposed to come on when you open the door and then stay on for, I think, 15 seconds. It's gonna do this no matter what you do; you can put the car in gear and start driving, but the dome light stays on until it times out. Most people are used to the light either going out when you shut the door or gradually dimming when you put the car in gear, or something along those lines, but this one is controlled only by the timer, which makes a lot of people think it's not working properly.
Move the light switch either forward or back, then shut the door and wait about 15-20 seconds. If the light doesn't go out do it again with the switch in the other position. Yeah, I think it's kind of dumb too, but I suppose Volvo's intentions were good..

 

I've tried that. And in both directions the light stays on indefinately.. and I even got another dome light relay.. I guess its possible tha both relays could be stuck closed?

 

Found out the missing problem was from a clogged fuel filter. My gas tank is rusting away and all the sediment has been collecting in the fuel filter for sometime now... Changed out the filter, and the strainer in the tank, and she starts and runs a lot better.. Ordered a new tank, so that should be in soon. Can't wait to see how she'll run with no contaminants in the fuel... Sucks that i'm going to have to replace the fuel filter and strainer again though, lol

 

Fixed the problem with the dome light.. seems there were some very poor grounds at a couple of the door switches.. cleaned up the contacts, and changed the timer relay. and now she's good to go.. thanks all!