Don't know what to do with my 240

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Old 05-16-2015, 06:28 PM
don carlos's Avatar
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Default Don't know what to do with my 240

Time to sell or scrap my volvo 92' 240 but I don't know what will be the best option. I'm fine with scrapping it but it may have some life left in it still if someone's interested. Broken odometer at 230,000 from a few years ago, broken speedo, check engine light is on and starting last week it began dying on me occasionally but starts up after sitting for a few minutes. It may be something small, or could be something BIG! Last summer it had a similar issue and it ended up being just a bad fuel pressure regulator. 100 dollars later it was rocking again. Its been to Utah, california and back a couple times so it can be solid. Anyways, any suggestions are appreciated. Sell? Price? Scrap? Sell for parts? Thanks for the help
 
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Old 05-17-2015, 11:09 AM
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For me the governing factor in scrapping the car is the condition of the body & interior. If it is rusted out or totally trashed, then scrap it. If the body & interior are in good shape then fix it and keep driving. The stalling issue sounds like it could be a failing crank position sensor which costs around $50 and isn't too hard to replace. Check engine light could be a number of things.
 
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Old 05-17-2015, 02:27 PM
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Trade it for a 242 and then crush that!

I don't know what you want us to tell you, dude. Pics?

Pull codes and check if your ignition is dead or not when it doesn't start. Common failures are crank sensor and also ignition amplifier/powerstage.
 
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Old 05-19-2015, 12:10 AM
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Stalling issues related to fuel delivery could be more systematic down the road. I had a similar stalling issue (would have to disconnect and then reconnect the battery to get it to fire up!), that ended up being a combination of a bad crank position sensor, and ignition control module.

What act1292 said though, completely dependent on body/interior shape. Don't crush it if it looks nice, chances are someone is looking for a clean 240 body. Back when I was thinking about selling mine, almost everyone who was interested in it was more interested in the body shape.
 
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Old 05-19-2015, 03:16 PM
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the two codes for the engine were both related to lean fuel trim. could it be a leaky hose of some sort thats causing this? The body is in pretty good shape. No dents, no rust, seats have cracks in the leather but still fairly clean on the inside. My mechanic said they don't know whats causing it and it could be anywhere from 200 to 500 dollars or more to fix.
 
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Old 05-19-2015, 04:27 PM
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Airleaks or bad airflow meter can cause lean condition.

Check for airleaks with a section of vac hose stuck in your ear.

Originally Posted by don carlos
My mechanics said they don't know whats causing it
Fired! IS the damn thing sparking when it's dead or not?
 

Last edited by REVOLV; 05-19-2015 at 04:30 PM.
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Old 05-20-2015, 06:47 AM
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As Revolv said, the codes could be from leaks in the the air intake between the AMM and the throttle body. Remove the big accordian hose and inspect for cracks or holes in it. If that is all good, it could be the AMM. Over the years I have picked up a couple of AMM from the junkyard when I see them. Just make sure you get one that has the same part number as yours. They cost me $35 apiece and the two I have purchased were good. One I felt good about looked fresh and even had a Volvo parts number sticker on it. I keep them as spares for this sort of situation.

Regarding the stalling, check the wire from the Crank Position sensor. If there is cracked and flaking insulation on it then it is suspect. The sensor is located on the top of the bell housing where the engine and trans come together. It has a fat black coax cable that runs to a connector on the firewall.

You'll find much more help on the forums here than from most mechanics unless you find one the specializes in Volvos (and is older).
 

Last edited by act1292; 05-20-2015 at 06:49 AM.
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Old 05-20-2015, 07:40 AM
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Also, when I replaced my Crank Position sensor, it looked fine on the outside (housing and wire was solid), but when I removed it, the electromagnet tip was straight up rusty. It's held on by one bolt that isn't terribly difficult to access. Definitely worthwhile to check out.
 
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Old 05-20-2015, 11:12 AM
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Nothing wrong with putting a fresh RPM sensor in there. Its a common cause for no starts. Dont be a bonehead and break/strip your bracket for it, or you get to pull engine or gearbox to fix it.
 
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