I have dropped the drive shaft from my daughter's 1987 740 Turbo Wagon. Following the advice received in another thread I left small index marks on the drive line so i can re-install it as it was sitting in the car up till now. I definitely need new U-joints, and the center support bushing and bearing need to be replaced. I had no trouble finding the bearing at the nearby O'Reilly's. They don't have a clue about the center bushing, however. Can anyone help me with a source for this part? Perhaps a part number?Also, the section of the driveshaft that goes through the center bearing/bushing is two parts connected by a spline. Anyone know how this these two pieces are separated?

Thank you for any assistance.

Sincerely,
Robert Booth

 

The bushing is a Volvo part, you'd get it from a dealer.

catch 22, there's two versions of the drive shaft for a 87 740 turbo with a AW71 transmission, type 02 and type 03.

type 02 uses carrier[2] 1209820 with center bearing[3] 181549 and rubber ring ('lip') [6] 1206096
type 03 uses carrier[2] 1340501 with center bearing[3] 183265 and rubber bellows [6] 3549771

parts diagram for both: (the [number]s above refers to this diagram. .



note the inset on top that shows the dimensions that distinguish them. I haven't dealt with a earlier 740 than my 92 so I have no idea what this is all about.

note also, my parts catalog is a few years old, and there may well be substitutions. on anything prior to 1990 they've gotten pretty sloppy about which parts are in what years.

I'm also not sure about the 'giubo' [17] vs U joint and what cars used what. giubo (aka flexdisk) might be stickshift only, or something.

and if you have a ZF22 automatic, this may well be all wrong. I dunno what the cutover for AW vs ZF is (ZF's have 1-2-3-D shifters, while AW's have 1-2-D with electric OD)

 

oh. the spline between [13] and [14] just pulls apart. thats what you're supposed to mark so you assemble it exactly the same.

 

hahahaha.... that makes perfect sense, Pierce, I see it perfectly. Fortunately like everything else on this car 30 years of accumulated crude and corruption kept the spline from separating so I will mark the parts now before I yank them apart.

Again, your words of instruction are a huge help and the picture are worth many as well.

Sincerely,
Robert Booth

 

On reading more closely, I know my car doesn't have the "flexdisk" and I know it has an electric overdrive. At least there is a switch on the shifter that when pressed lights an "UP" arrow indicator on the dash, which I think means overdrive.

NAPA has two center support bushings one they call large and one they don't call large, ATM 0772807 and ATM 0772808, respectively. The one in my daughters vehicle definitely looks like the large.

Being in Hawai'i make availability hard. I think I am on the way to getting this solved though.

Thanks again.

RB

 

the orange light actually is on when the OD (4th gear) is disabled, with the light OFF, the OD is automatic.

I looked again at the parts catalog, the flexdisk is for the stickshift. interestingly enough, our 1990 and 1994 Mercedes (both E class 'W124' family), uses flexdisks front and rear on the main drive shaft instead of U joints, with an automatic. but these cars have IRS so the differential doesn't move with the suspension

 

My mechanic told me that my drive shaft center support bushing (bearing carrier) needs replacement. He would charge $466. I confirmed his diagnosis by easily moving the drive shaft in the bushing side-to-side 1/2". I was also noticing a thudding noise on steep hills and can see the bushing has touched the body above it, although minor. My wagon has the type 03 drive shaft shown in Pierce's diagram above.

I need help with these questions:

1) Is there some way to peek to see if other parts inside the bushing (#3, 4, 5, 6, & 7) like the bearing also need replacement without taking the drive shaft apart? Does the failure of the bushing usually indicate that the bearing and associated parts have also failed? I am trying to avoid taking the drive shaft out and then having my car non-operational while I order and wait for more parts.

2) The Volvo factory bushing costs $170 but Fcpeuro sells an aftermarket one for $15. Is it important to buy the factory bushing for this application -- like it is for suspension bushings?

3) If the bearing is bad does the job get considerably more difficult? Should it always be replaced anyway when the carrier is replaced? My bearing has 240K miles.

4) Is there anything else on the drive shaft that should be checked either before or during the bushing replacement?

Thanks.