The reverse on my 1987 volvo 240dl broke today. How do you fix this. Does anyone have pictures of the reverse,schematics of where I can look to see if I can do it myself? Or , can you tell me how to do it, and what parts I need to fix it.

 

Reverse what? Gear? Do you have a manual or automatic? Or do you mean the reverse lights?

 

The reverse on the stick shift

 

If it's a manual are you referring to the inability of being able to shift into reverse via the little safety lock out collar used to engage the reverse slot?

 

I can't shift in reverse

 

But was what I said right?

 

1) If you move the gear shift all the way to the left does it only stay inline with 1st and 2nd gear? 2) Or does it move inline with reverse, but you are unable to move it forward allowing you to engage reverse gear?

 

YES! I just can't put it in reverse. that pullup button is broke and I think the pin or something broke.

 

I'm writing you a step by step on 'How To Replace The Reverse Mechanism' But I would like to know which transmission is it? Is it the M46 - 4 speed with electronic overdrive or the M47 - The 5 speed?

 

My volvo is a 5speed

 

Ok cool. So no little button in the gear shift itself. That'll make my step-by-step write up a lot easier and quicker. Just to let you know I'm almost done with it.

 

Ok thank you. So...depending on what exact part broke can be determined once you completely pull it apart. The reversing mechanism device has 4 parts to it - 1) The collar/ring on the top, 2) the pull rod that runs the length of the gear shift, 3) the lockout ring/sleeve that needs to be lifted when selecting reverse, and 4) the spring that resets and pushes everything back down once you shift back out of reverse. Mine had been replaced once or twice in it's life before I bought the car and needed to be changed again when I bought mine.

If you pull it apart and find your reversing mechanism is metal, you will have to move to and purchase the newer type from the dealer due to the fact that it's cheaper to make the plastic parts instead of the metal ones, unless you're lucky enough to find one in a junk yard, but it's a lot easier and faster to just buy a new one. However if it's the older type you'll have to buy three out of the four pieces because the old and new ones are incompatible. But if it is the newer plastic type then you can just buy the single piece you need.

Oh one more thing, if it's the M46 transmission, meaning it's the 4 speed with electronic overdrive, with the button in the middle of the **** then it'll take more time. If it's the M47 transmission meaning it's the straight 5 speed then it'll be a whole lot easier and quicker. I also had to replace the ****, the OD wires and switch/button in mine, the wires were almost gone and exposed and it was shorting out at the switch too. So in other words I had to do a complete job on mine, but anyway on to helping you.

Tools needed:
1) An appropriate size (opened end) wrench
2) A hammer
3) A flat bottomed/tipped narrow punch or a strong flat tipped nail, or flat tipped pin
4) An angled pair of needle nose pliers
5) A regular strong pair of pliers
6) I believe a 10mm wrench too

I have the M46 transmission so here's what I had to do for it (it's based on memory):
Note: Please read through the guide first, before performing the task so you’ll know what you’re getting into, as there are steps and tips you can skip or use. This procedure should work on the M47 transmission too.

1) Take a tiny but stiff flat blade screwdriver and carefully work it between the center cap (the h/shift pattern on it) and the ****.
2) Gently and carefully work your way around it's edges until it comes out. Do not try to just force and pry it out once the blade is in because you'll risk ruining/cracking/splitting the cap and need to buy a new one. (I broke mine but I was lucky enough that the last owner left me with a spare center cap).
3) Once the cap is off, carefully work out the OD button, but remember that there are wires attached and you don't want to rip them, so take the angled pliers and pull off each of the two wires. Note: If it doesn't have the OD button in the middle because it's the 5 speed, then there shouldn't be any wires to worry about, thus allowing you to save time and you can skip steps 1 – 3.
4.0) You can use some muscle and pull the **** off Note: If wires are present, just make sure they don't get caught while pulling the **** off.
4.5) Or you can take the wrench, set it right underneath the bottom of the **** and gently tap it off with a hammer.
5) Once the **** is removed, use the 10mm wrench to remove the 4 bolts holding on the shift boot at the bottom.
6) Bolts removed - slide the boot up and over the gear shift. With the **** and boot removed you can now examine and determine where the brake in the mechanism is. You can also see the OD wires that come out through a hole in the lower right side of the gear shift.
7) Look at the lever for two rubber circles - one on each side, and if you notice there is a 'roll pin' in the middle.
8) Use the punch or w/e it is you have and start tapping the pin with the hammer. If the punch is slightly bigger than the pin just tap it until you can't and pull it out the other side with the regular pliers. If the punch is smaller than the pin then you'll be on easy street and you'll be able to just tap the pin all the way out effortlessly.
9.0) Once the pin is removed, you can use your muscles again and pull the chrome sleeve off. Note: If you do have the OD wires, then don't be Hercules and pull it straight off because you'll risk the gear lever flying when it pops off and ripping the wires. But if it doesn't have the OD wires because it's the 5 speed then pull as hard as you like.
9.5) If you're not comfortable pulling or w/e then you can set a wrench underneath and tap it up with a hammer. The reversing mechanism will come with it too, but make sure not to damage the spring.
10) Once the chrome sleeve is off, from the big end of it look down and you’ll see a rubber ring inside that the pin went through earlier.
11) Pry out the ring and you’ll see another smaller ring at the other end. Note: Both rings will have a groove cut out on their outer edge for the pull rod to run through between the ring and the lever’s sidewall.
12) To remove the top rubber ring, start from the top and use a well lengthened flat blade screwdriver to push it all the way from the top to the bottom.
13) Now you should be left with the chrome rod and the reversing mechanism, so assuming that it was the pull rod or the screw mounting on the collar ring that broke it should just fall apart into your hands and you’ll now be able to see all the inter-workings of your gear shift that you may have just tossed on the floor besides you instead of in a case. Note: Don’t lose the little spring that you may have noticed was housed around the pull rod and the internal gear shift rod, because that’s the only part you’ll be able to reuse upon installation of the new parts.
14) Assuming that the (metal) rod or collar is bad and is in two pieces you can slide the collar/ring up through the top and the rest through the bottom.



If you need and have received new parts then please let me know the results of your findings, and I’ll tell you how to properly install everything back to the way it looked and functioned before the problem occurred.

 

Hello all. New to the forum. I am the proud owner of a 1987 Volvo 240DL Limited Edition (ooooh aaaaahh) Estate. I call him Pepe. Typical of this year it sports the B230F 4 cyl. engine and the M47 5 speed transmission. I just purchased it and it's full of bugs.... No, no, not the creepy crawly kind. The kind that have you awakening in a pool of sweat screaming in the middle of the night. The one I am inquiring about here is my transmission has reverse issues as well. It will go into reverse, the safety lever operates and all that, but it seems to be missing teeth. It makes a loud clank a couple times per revolution and if I don't keep depressing the clutch to miss the bad spots it will sometimes almost lock itself into reverse. So I'm pretty sure there are teeth stripped off. My question is what it the most economical fix for this problem? I have priced re-manufactured trannies at around $800, but that's twice as much as I paid for the whole car. Considering the low purchase price and the potential years of happy return on this investment I may consider this option. However, what are my other options? How hard is it to tear into an M47? I previously owned a '79 with the M46 w/ electronic OD and it was surprisingly easy to do just about anything to that car. I did all my own repairs with a little help from forums and YouTube. Is that a remote possibility? Could I get the gear and replace it? All forward gears shift clean and operate flawlessly. I probably need to replace the clutch. How difficult is that? Any suggestions or advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

I have an s80 automatic. when put in reverse gear, the sound in the cab that is activated by the nearness of an object close to the rear of the car, is on all the time and continuous irrespective of any obstruction outside the vehicle. only happened on the return of the car after an alternator was replaced. Coincidence or connection?

 

Go to the S80 forums, start a new post, and try to describe your problem better!

 

Slick Nerd, thanks for your write-up. Very complete. IPD used to sell a "Reverse Repair Kit " with the necessary parts all in one bag. Maybe they still do. In the bag also comes instructions, which omitted many of the details of your write up. I also remember having to remove the whole shift lever from the shifting forks...required a hex wrench and being underneath the car. Maybe not necessary. Also, if you loosen the boot from the floor and let it ride the stick up high, you can manipulate the reverse lock-out with your finger. Lifting up, or pressing it to the side, IIRC. As a temporary means to drive the car for a while