My '85 Volvo DL has developed a couple major rust spots that I am wondering, what is the best way to fix or prevent further rusting?

The major spots are on the back passenger side skirt, underneath the back passenger-side door; and the trunk wheel wells, directly behind the back wheels - where the spare tire and jumper cables are typically stored.



Trunk wheel well rust spot. Passenger side.



Driver side trunk wheel well spot. Starting to go.



This is the rust spot on the underskirt beneath the back passenger door. (1/3)



Rust spot on the underskirt beneath the back passenger door. (2/3)



Rust spot on the underskirt beneath the back passenger door. (3/3)



Passenger side trunk wheel well spot, directly behind back passenger wheel. Garbage bag is seen here protecting jumper cables. (1/2)


Any advice or thoughts are greating appreciated! Thank you.

 

For starters, locate First, I'd check for any leaks, often what causes rust is moisture pooling into an area. The rocker/side skirt area might be full of dirt and crud as the wiper drains route around that area.

To fix the rust:

1: Cut out the old metal/rust

2. Weld in new metal, make sure to use the right kind of weld too.

3. Seal, re paint, and POR-15 it

4. Hope that the rust doesnt return.

The biggest problem with rust is that theres often more than you can see, much of your rot is from the inside out so theres a good chance that theres more hiding.

 

+1. Exactly.
There is more rust than you can see.
All the repairs suggested are pretty difficult and should be done by a professional. Unfortunately more expensive than the car is worth...

 

On the upside, if you can find a wrecked 90-something 240 you have a good candidate for a front end swap. Probably cheaper than a restoration too.

 

Is there any DIY remedy to slow or stop the spread of the rust?

 

You can cut it out or stop the spread with Naval Jelly or similar. Then you can fill it up with Bondo or similar, paint it, etc. This should hold you for a couple of years.

 

check with an automotive paint supplier to see what they recommend for commercial automotive rust inhibitors. +2 on removing as much of the rust as you can (mechanically or chemically) then use a rust inhibitor/undercoating to seal and keep the moisture out... for those of us old enough to remember when cars weren't galvanized steel or hot dipped etc :-)

 

These Volvos *were* hot dipped in zinc after the body is assembled. But, a 1985 has seen 35 years of salty roads.... I would consider that car terminal, and go looking for a southwest car...

 

It was an Ohio car for most of its life. Now it's a Louisiana car. From salty roads to humidity....

I'm keen on trying to fix it as best as I can. If I didn't mention it, the undercarriage of the car looks pretty good and rust-free.

 

oh dear, that rust looks pretty bad. figures it was from ohio originally. if i were you i would be doing a very thorough inspection of all the areas
to determine the real extent of the issue, before deciding to do anything. where there is some, there's going to be more hidden. you realize that
once you start, there's no going back ! then, if you do end up fixing it you will be stuck with the car forever!!! so, your call..

 

Great tips from the people here. I'll add a few more.

1. Some of the rust is pretty bad. It'll take a lot of work to cut out the old and replace with new sheet metal.
2. Some of the rust is near jack points like the rockers. Those are suppose to be strong points where you can lift the car. I don't recommend using them for jack points.
3. The decision to repair should be based on a few factors: How much do you like the car? How much mechanical life is left? Would it be better to find a rust free car and sell yours? Can you do the work yourself to save money? Do you have the time?
4. Someone above mentioned what's showing is just the start. I think you'll find a lot more rust when you start digging. Do you want to start a big project like this?

I hope this helps.

 

The car has 132k miles. It is in pretty great shape beyond these couple rust spots; very mint exterior and interior.

I'm going to take it to a body shop and get a quote on the underskirt rust spot to fix, as that's the closest to affecting part of the frame.

 

body shops just do cosmetic cover-ups, they can't deal with structural rust. I'm pretty sure they'll give you a quote that exceeds the value of the car.

 

with those rust holes, the exterior isn’t “mint”; not even remotely.

 

it may be a good idea to have the car put on a lift to see whether any of the rust impacts a structural area such as where the suspension bolt to the unibody. The car can be a daily driver even with rusted out rocker panels or rust in the floor pan assuming its not in an area with structural importance. If you need a professional assessment, I'd look for a auto restoration shop vs a traditional body shop as they'd have more experience with metal fabrication. In the northeast we used to call these "station cars" (for going to/from the commuter train station).

 

rust like that would never be passed for an inspection sticker here in Mass. they are getting super strict here ...
see lots of vehicles having all sorts of quick repairs on them ... duct tape covered with bondo etc etc just enough to pass...