Based on your rhetoric, you are educated. I respect that. If you keep posting and don't disappear, I will help.

Start with checking for spark. If you have spark on all 4 cylinders look to fuel. use a spark sprak plug and dont get anywhere near it when cranking!

If you have sprak, get your hands on a fuel pressure tester. 1994 has a shrader valve on the fuel rail. Check fuel pressure.

 

Pop the cover off the fuel pump relay. Do both circuits CLOSE when cranking?

 

94-95 regina doesn't use the dual relay. instead, it uses the RSR as the 'main' relay to power the ECU, and uses a seperate single relay in position "M" for the fuel pump. the traditional fuel pump relay location "E" is empty on these cars.

 

Right now I'm at my Girlfriend's house guys, a little under the weather. I have long standing chronic health issues that when they come put me down until I can't really do much of anything. It can last a day or a week, I think this is just due to SO much rain in the Northeastern US here...my spinal cord swells up and I have to wait until it goes back down.

To date I have checked the pump relay and replaced it at the fuse panel IN the car behind the ashtray, replaced the RSR under the hood, and the pump.

My car is at my house, I'll be there either Monday or Tuesday most likely next. If lucky maybe tomorrow Sun, it's Sat. June 20th today.

There's no pressure at the rail at all, or gas. There hasn't been since this started. What got me was there WAS pressure at the schrader valve before the fuel filter under the frame/rear passenger seat, the filter was also replaced this started when the car was run relatively low on fuel-below warning light low,not empty.

My thought process was the filter got clogged, maybe frying the pump, or the pump fried.

I'm wondering about hardwiring that quick disconnect link under the storage hatch on the driver's side in the back of the wagon? One of the metal tabs had white corrosion like you'd see on a battery terminal, not as much of course, and this started with either the car would run, or it wouldn't stopping mid traffic once, then sitting and firing right up, then dead since then. I did scrape it off, but there's also some where the tab goes into the quick disconnect for the wiring to the pump assembly.

I'll try the jumper connections and see if any codes come up under the hood, but no check engine light is on...not sure if that has to happen for a code to come up.

Thanks for your help so far guys I appreciate it. I've had 6 redblocks at least, this one is pretty frustrating. I'm looking at buying either an '02 Saab hatchback, and there's a '90 760 wagon on Long Island for 2k with 76,000 miles ONLY on it.... My gf wants me to buy the Saab, and while I love how they drive and the design, seats, vroom-vroom turbo and all,...they also tend to blow up at a any given time-motor-trans-etc.

 

Also, when doing the filter, I drained the line after the pump, tried to start it, got SOME fuel at the line, I don't think it could've been residual, and when I detached the quick disconnect from the direct fuel line to the pump, I got fuel under pressure there.... so weird. I even put a zip lock bag there with a rubber band BEFORE replacing the fuel pump, did the 10 times turn the key to prime it, no fuel in the bag at all, nothing from the OLD pump so I replaced it.

After I buttoned everything up from the new pump, there's still no fuel. Just to explain it a bit better. Again weird.

 

there are codes that don't light the check engine light. a code kind of has to recur to know its still a valid one (meaning, you read it and clear it, verify there's no code, then drive some more and have the code come back). yes, I know, you can't drive it if its not running.

 

if there's no power at the fuel pump when the car is being cranked over, you need to figure out why. if jumpering the fuel pump relay as I said above causes the pump to run, then either its a bad or wrong relay, or there's something else wrong. if jumpering it doesn't cause the pump to run, I'd be checking the fuses again, with an ohm meter.

 

do you know how to use a voltmeter?

 

No, I'm not good with electronics in cars, but I can learn to do anything pretty much. I can google it and figure it out, I've got one in my basement, came with a lot of tools I got at a tag sale, I do woodworking, gunsmithing, etc. I can figure this out. I don't know what to set the dial at...

I'lll do Pierce's jumper first, there's a jumper already IN one of the fuse/relay locations...not sure why or if it's just stored there. I also don't want to fry anything by missing up a connection/pin locations...wee bit nervous.

These rex-regina cars are a P.I.T.A. compared to Bosch...parts etc.

 

Sill voting fuse #1

 

Big red flag!!!


Worst thing that will happen is some entertaining sparks and maybe a blown fuse.


You can leave the dust on the multimeter for a bit longer and do the test I said to do. -----Pop the cover off the fuel pump relay and WATCH to see if the contacts close when you crank. You can also pinch them with your fingers and listen for the fuel pumps to go.

Should be able to do it with a bad back. Its a relay right there in the center console. Pull it out, pry the cover off with your favorite tool, reinstall, see what happens....!

 

I'll check fuses, that's easy enough to do, I don't understand how a fuse could cause the relay to go...and I did put a brand new OEM relay in there from FCP, no start.... I suppose it could've been shot from the factory, I've seen stranger stuff. I'm trying to get to it today guys, thanks for the continued help.

I may hard wire that quick disconnect and see if that's it. I've seen corrosion like that on say window switches before that needed to be replaced on my other redblocks.... I'll let you know how it goes.

 

Pierece, any specific fuses? I'll check today, I "thought" there was another panel under the hood, but that may have just been the RSR that was discussed, but I'll go through the other fuses on the panel behind the ashtray.

Thing I don't understand is how it would be intermittently running, then dead. Usually when a fuse or realy goes, it just goes which is why I was thinking pump, of course I can answer my own question in that maybe it went when the tank ran low, or it's two problems I'm not aware of and not just one. Like I said I've seen weirder stuff.

 

Can you not pop a cover off the relay and watch it? It's not about if the relay is good or not. It's about a low tech way to do a diagnosis.If the circuits close=GOOD. If the contact inside the relay don't close when cranking=BAD!

Do you have spark? Ground coil wire to strut tower and have the GF or you crank it and look for spark.

 

fuse 1 is the main fuel injection system fuse, fuse 11 is the fuel pump.

 

You can also check for blown fuses. I sold all my 700/900's and I still forget my circuit numbers on my 240. Use the ashtray guide to figure it out!

 

Ok, I found a temporary fix. I bought an '01 V70 wagon with 61k orig miles for $2k. Which means, it's a temporary fix as it looks great, drives like a Cadillac, but will break down faster than a yugo....I see a rebuilt transmission in my future.

NOW, seeing as I will need the reliable car to work again when the FordVo breaks down,.....

I checked every fuse in the panel because I could, they're all intact and working. I pulled the cover off the fuel pump relay, it works as you'd expect it to, closes when the ignition is put into just before start position to prime the line, injectors, then opens when you actually turn over the motor. I even tried holding it closed with the motor turned over....nothing.

No fuel from the NEW pump or any noise that it's working...I'm fairly sure I replaced a totally fine working fuel pump. I really think it might be that damn quick disconnect. I'm going to try to just solder the connections together and by pass it, see if that's what is doing this. I'd bet it is... We'll see

 

Hey thanks for actually performing a test! Did BOTH circuits close and stay closed during cranking? If so, I would then check for 12v at the fuel pump positive connector.

You could also rent a fuel pressure guage from oreilly (if they have em there. Checkers...?) for $150 deposit and it goes on the fuel filter outlet. M12xXXX.

Do you have sprak?

 

again, a 1994 Regina doesn't have a dual relay. the 'main' relay is the RSR under the hood, and the fuel pump relay in the main relay panel is just a fuel pump relay.

 

You posted above picture in another thread. It sure as heck shows a relay with two circuits. When the relay is engergized, blue yellow gets it's juice and so does pink. Blue yellow goes and powers up the IAC, etc. Pink goes and powers up the fuel pumps.

The radio relay is just an extra waste of a circuit to power up the injectors, yet again. Non turbo cars, and converted to turbo cars seem to run just fine without it!