Well it turns out that my headgasket job which ostensibly went well did something to the injection system I thought the issues were electrical but the more I investigate the more I am ruling it out. Fault codes say electrical is all fine 1 1 1. I think the spark plugs are shorting with fuel and thats why the timing light is faultering when the car stalls. So here is where I am at:

Car runs absolutely great till it warms up then when you throttle it floods out. If I am gentle opening the throttle it will rev but opening it wide open or even moderately open and doggs it out and will kill it if I let it. Up a steep hill is impossible - it floods out.

Fault codes for Regina fuel injection 232 Self adjusting oxygen sensor not operating - 221 Oxygen sensor not operating and 223 missing to and from idle valve.

I've cleaned the idle air control valve and it definitely kills the engine if I disconnect it at idle. It runs above idle with it disconnected but wont idle unless its hooked up.

No air leaks or disconnected sensors. I pulled each connector and worked it a little to make sure all the connectors are making contact.

The Oxygen sensor codes has been showing for years - local volvo guy said its not important on these old cars and it has run fine this way for years.

I buddy is convinced its a temperature sensor in the head that may have taken a blow or something.

What say you??? Valve timing is dead on, Compression 150 -155 each. I need to nail this down or it goes in the shop which I cannot afford!!!

Thanks for your help,

Mark

 

Sounds like coolant temp sensor problem.Remove the connector and make sure the female pins are pushed all the way into the connector.(see pic)
These have a tendency to push out of the connector when reinstalled.


Dan

 

I ran out to check them - makes too much sense. They are deep in the socket, probably a little deeper than the photo you show. My assumption is that the sensor we are discussing is the rearward of two sensors in the head beneath the intake manifold. I pulled on the connectors a little with tiny needle nose just in case. Its now idling to warm up to see - It didn't work. Still stalls when you throttle when its warm.

WOuld this sensor show up as a fault code?

 

I would go ahead and pull the O2 sensor and spray it with some carb cleaner let it dry and reinstall it just to see if it makes an improvement.

 

Did you pull on the connector or the wires?
If the pins aren't pushed out like they are in the pic,there probably not making contact.


Dan

 

Should I clean it or wire brush it or otherwise molest it or just spray and wipe it off? Has anyone used generic O2 sensors or is it a visit to Volvo. Has anyone had to replace the temp sensor?

 

Any idea what the sensor should ohm out at hot and cold: I could trace the wires and see if I an intercept them at the next connection and check. I'm bumming right now with a rental car and a date to have someone look at it on Friday. Would love to be done with this all.

 

The O2 sensor is simple when you remove it more than likely it will be black with carbon buildup and completely clogged just spray it with old school carb cleaner and dry it off then reinstall it don't replace it just clean and put back in.

Here a link to some volvo green books covering the majority of the 200 series models you will find one on electrical system that should show the correct OHM ratings and test procedures.

http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/

Just a side note Turbo 240 has the right idea as well in making sure that connector has the wire prongs in the right place. And thats one of the coolest PIC posts I have seen anywhere.

 

@14 deg...8,260-10,560 ohms
@68 deg...2,280-2720 ohms
@176 deg...290-364 ohms

Edit:these readings are for a Lh system,if yours is a Rex/Regina they may be different.


Dan

 

The computer has told you what systems are failing, turn your attention to them. Cleaning O2 sensors is a complete waste of time, at best you will make them shinier, at worst you will destroy the sensor.
They are a consumable item, replace it and gain mileage, a smoother running car just for starters.
Then look at that idle valve.

Regards, Andrew.

 

I just called autozone about o2 sensors. Seems there are two of them to the tune of $350 total. How do I know which one to replace or both and has anyone used one of the internet BOSCH ones for less than $100?

 

I would stick with the OEM ones as they are designed to work with your specific engine and fuel system, You may just have to bite the bullet and replace them both. Your engine setup is very dependent on both of those sensors sending correct readings to the ECM. I would replace the coolant temp sensor and check the connector just to make sure it's in good shape then have the ignition module tested and lastly replace the O2 sensors as they are the most expensive parts to replace.

 

Well, I changed out the IAC, temperature sensor, and the computer and absolutely NO Change!!! Everyone Volvo says that the O2 sensors won't create the problem of dieing when the car gets hot and you give it throttle. This one is kicking my bum...

M

 

Oh yeah, this is a completely wrong assumption. You have an ignition problem if the timing light falters when running, plain and simple.
It's time for you to buy a workshop manual and systematically apply all the troubleshooting in that manual. We are only speculating here, something like this needs to be seen first hand to truly get a grasp on it.
I am guessing something like ignition coil, coil driver or similar is your problem now.

Regards, Andrew.