HELP!!! Blower Motor Replacement

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Old 07-03-2010, 05:31 PM
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Default HELP!!! Blower Motor Replacement

I am in the process of replacing the heater blower motor. I have removed all vent work and blower motor cover on the right side, but having a heck of a time removing the left side vent work and therefore the left side blower motor cover. Glove box, radio, instrument cluster, center console along with heater/ac controls have all been removed.

Does anyone have any advise on how to get the left side vent work off?
 
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Old 07-03-2010, 05:40 PM
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:03 PM
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Wow you are brave doing a blower motor on a 240... At least I am assuming a 240?What year do you own? When you say left you mean drivers side? or passenger? Because on the 240's pre 90 you do not need to remove the passenger side cover to do the motor...(only 90-93 you need to remove the cover cause the fan spindle is too short)just remove the driver if it's pre 90. Then with a drumel tool you make a small hole(on the passenger side cover) where you think the spindle is or the metal clip that hold the blade on. Then take a dentist pick and remove the clip.The fan then pulls out from right to left or thru the driver side. It cannot be removed thru the passenger side. Once you have fan removed connect the new resistor to the new fan(always replace the resistor) and put the wires up thru the top vent black gromet. Put fan in place and tighten screws. get all the wires, vacuum line connected and the with your pick lift the passenger side blad onto the spindle push on tightly with a screwdriver. take your locking clip put thru the hole you made and back onto fan blade. Then fill small hole with a rubber grommet. Also make sure to replace your switch. Now, if you cannot or do not feel comfortable doing it that way then you need to remove both covers. do this by removing all small metall clips. make sre to get them all they can be hiding. you may need a long flat blade screwdriver to get them all off. make sure you dont lose these so you can put them back on when your done. There is also a screw at the bottom of the cover under the carpet and may be one at top too that hold the cover to the lower floor vent and upper vent, you need to remove that screw. you also need to remove the tabs that hold the defrost vents in place. If you have done all that, you should be able to pull cover down(takes a bit of force..tight fit) and expose the inner cover. you DO NOT need to take the inner cover off on the passenger side cause fan comes out drivers side...Hope that helps. it's a MONSTER job that I HATE doing but have done it several times...just make sure you replace the motor with a Siemens brand motor only if you plan on keeping the car and replace the resistor and the switch. That's how it's done in a Volvo shop...BTW make sure you do not pinch the vacuum lines when you put the covers back on...and you will need a long 90 degree long nosed plires to get the vacuum line back on the bottom of the drivers side cover...hope this helps and good luck...I will pray for you
 
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Old 07-03-2010, 06:28 PM
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Sorry to say but that looks like amateaur hour at the Apollo... J/K But I commend you for your efforts. Just you're making it even more difficult then it is. It's already a hard job why make it harder on yourself? So, for any future motor replacements, you do NOT need to pull all that stuff out especially not all of your upper and lower heating vents. Only vent that needs to come fully out is the center vent below the stereo...dfrost vents are just disconnected from cover. Another helpful tip is to just plug the switches back in when you remove the center console so you dont have to mark your wires. Also, you should always trace the plug on the switch on a piece of white paper and lable each wire on the paper before you pull the pins(connectors out) so you remember how they go back in. Furthermore you don't even need to pull off the passenger side cover if you have a pre 1990 240. You can just use a dremmel tool to cut a small hole in the cover and use a rubber grommet to plug it. Also, you ALWAYS, AlWAYS replace the resistor and the switch when you do a new motor...job is WAY too BIG and switch and resistor too cheap not to just do it while your in there. That is how ALL Volvo shops do it. Also, not sure what you're grinding off there but I never needed to grind anything when putting a new blower motor in...Good pics though and cool tests for the vacuum canister and diaphragms. Hey, keep it up you'll figure it out one day and when you do a light will go off in your head and you'll say....oh yeah..... Hope this helps bro...

Originally Posted by steve53226
 
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Old 07-03-2010, 10:46 PM
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Doing job on 1993 240 and when I say left side it is the drivers side. Right side(passenger) vents all pulled and blower cover already removed and impeller off also.

Drivers side vent system seems to be much more difficult to remove
 
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Old 07-04-2010, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by newmex999
Doing job on 1993 240 and when I say left side it is the drivers side. Right side(passenger) vents all pulled and blower cover already removed and impeller off also.

Drivers side vent system seems to be much more difficult to remove

In the future, always take drivers side off first...yes there is a vacuum line connected to the bottom of the cover on the drivers side that you must remove...also more vacuum lines in general on top blocking cover from getting out. Just make sure you remove all the metal clips(they can be hiding) use your bare hand to feel around and make sure to remove screw from bottom of cover to floor vent and top screw..DO NOT FORCE OFF YOU WILL BREAK THE COVER..if this happens use epoxy to glue back together...
 
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Old 07-05-2010, 07:34 AM
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I am a new forum member, recently purchased and am driving a 1988 245 Dl wagon 5 speed-and have begun to get my hands dirty on this and that--This thread--re: blower motor-resistor- and all is exactly why I joined the forum.

Thank you for the details and the warnings about vacuum hoses-and specific tools needed to make changing the blower and resistor a little bit more manageable--or maybe it really isn't going to be fun at all--we'll find out--

BTW--I would assume that there are no other words of advice you could offer if the car is a manual trans -yes?
 
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Old 07-05-2010, 09:23 PM
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In regards to the blower motor and manual trans or just in general? You must have the M47 if it's an 88 correct straight 5 no overdrive? If so just keep fluids clean cause that's one of the worst tranny's that Volvo produced...very prone to problems..but if you keep your tranny fluid clean should be fine..
 

Last edited by volvoguy2323; 07-06-2010 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 07-06-2010, 06:11 AM
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Default 88 240 Manual Transmission issue

Thanks for the feedback regarding the blower.

Now regarding the 5spd. Yes--straight 5 speed-no overdrive. My book indicates--that is a Vovlo Service Manual for teh 240 83-93--that it might be the M47--but this is of no matter to me--

Is there a service that I can do that would flush the fluid--and then refill with fresh? This vehicle sat for nearly 3 years with little or no running time-
THX
 
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Old 07-06-2010, 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by rlkieffer1
Thanks for the feedback regarding the blower.

Now regarding the 5spd. Yes--straight 5 speed-no overdrive. My book indicates--that is a Vovlo Service Manual for teh 240 83-93--that it might be the M47--but this is of no matter to me--

Is there a service that I can do that would flush the fluid--and then refill with fresh? This vehicle sat for nearly 3 years with little or no running time-
THX
Yes, M47...(that's what I thought I typed must have ben in another world... M46 82-86 or 87 is 4 speed with overdrive and M47 is straight 5 87/88-93. Yes,pull the drain plug which is the plug closest to the ground...plug above is fluid check plug. You could always pull check plug first and fluid chould leak out as soon as you get plug almost out...this tells you it is full. you can also check the colcor of the fluid then. Should be bright red because iit is dex/merc auto tranny fluid that is used...to fill you need a pump and a long skinny hose. Fill thru the check hole until the fluid starts to leak down...
 
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