If that goes bad, does the dash have to be taken apart to replace?

 

No.

Knee bolster out under the glove box. Metal cover for SRS off. Now you'll see the back of the fan. A few screws and it's out. Unplug the connectors. Replacein reverse order.

It's a good idea to disconnect the battery for 20 minutes before doing the repair to keep SRS from lighting in the dash. If that happens it's a trip to the dealer to turn that light off.

Also you'll need your radio code.

 

OK, what tools would I need,and where's a good place to get that cheap? My mechanic says it's about 1.5 hours labor and around $300 for the fan, which seems like a lot.

 

I replaced mine at around 190,000, with one from an S70 with 55,000 out of a salvage yard, cost $30. I think the fan was held in with Torx bolts. Took me about an hour. It was easy.

 

I don't know how similar it is, but thesixth post in this thread has some pictures from when I changed my blower motor and blower motor resistor in my V70.

https://volvoforums.com/m_62590/mpage_1/key_/tm.htm

 

Are there any electrical switches/resistors that need to be replaced at the same time?

 

I think Tech has said in the past that the blower motor resistor will go bad first and can cause the blower motor to go bad (am I right, Tech?). If so, my post that I referenced above shows that replacement on the V70 as well (which should be similar to the S70).

 

My son did his 98 V70R last winter and just did the blower motor w/o doing the resistor and he has had no problems. Said it was really easy.

 

I didn't change the resister. The motor was gone, because the motorbrush contacts on the armature were worn down to nothing.

 

OK, so this morning I go and turn on the heat, and the blower motor does not come on, and the orange lights on the climate control start blinking. I turn the car off, and the fan comes on just fine. WTF is going on??

 

Did you end up replacing the motor?

 

No, because it ended up working just fine, like it is now except for the incident this morning.

 

When mine went, itbecame intermittant. The brushes had eaten so far into the armature, the contactswere onlytouching the brush sides. The motor is mounted horizontily,so if it was contacting the edges on start up, it would rotate and keep going due to rotational vibration. Other times it wouldn't start at all. When I took it out and apllied power, it would start every time, but I was holding it vertically!It was only whenI took it apart, that I discovered the problem. It seems you may be entering this phase. Or, it could be a failing switch contact or wire connection.

 

A bad rheostaht (the dimmer switch with the AUT on the left side) has been known to cause intermittent problems turning the blower on/off.