Hello Piers, (or anyone w/the cranium for my problem)

I know that you are very busy and I will be patient but I really trust you to answer my Questions. (oh when I welded the chain to the hood the bat was disconnected.)

I have tested the relay(K) part#0332015006 for my 88 740 GLE 5 speed. I could here the circuit close and when I put the multi meter set to OHM 200 I got a reading of .3 . I swapped it out for the relay next to it (J) for the windows and the windows worked. There is no short in the car or parasitic fuse. The switch turns the lights on or the one that works(passenger). The blinker lever works for the turn signals and when I put the high beams on both lights used to come on but now only the driver side. But! If I hold the blinker lever up to but not click it into high beam position both high beams come on. I did a continuity test on both headlights and I could hear the beep on both sides.


1. Could the headlights be bad even if passenger comes on only low beam. Driver side comes on only high beam?

2. Could the headlights be bad even if a continuity test was done and it beep on both lamps?

3. Is the H position relay for the headlights, (I get different sayings on a second relay for lights depending on site I visit)

4. How can I test that relay in H position that is twice as big as the relay in K position ( Part # 1323998 7 prongs, 5 are just the same as the relay in K position but 2 on opposite ends I believe are for inserted security) I did the test on this relay the same way as I did for the known headlight relay above and I got nothing. No closed circuit sound or no reading with meter. I even tried to switch the alligator clips and meter around and got zip.

I want to do this and not get ripped off by taking it in.

Thanks so much for your time.

 

i don't have any wiring diagrams for an 88, so i can't be of much help, I don't even know what the relay positions are.. if you can locate the wiring diagrams, follow the power circuits around with a volt meter.

 

Thank you for you timely reply.

Well if I had a short wouldn't my battery drain.

Is the volt meter just to measure the volts going from one end of the headlight circuit to the other and what would I do with that info?

All I know is there is no short. At least to drain the bat. It starts up just fine...

Could I do the check W/12V test light?

Thanks again Piers .

 

your questions suggest to me that you're a novice at electrics. without the wiring diagrams and electrical troubleshooting experience, its pretty much hopeless.

 

I'm having a little difficulty in reading your post so lets start with the basics. If you turn on your headlights with the switch do you get 12V at the headlights connector on both low beams. If so are both lights lit. When you pull the stalk to high beams do you get 12V at each headlight connector and are each headlight lit. Lets start from there.

 

Bypass the b bulb integrity sensor, information can be found at the link below and I can show you what I made if you like. After that tell us if the problem is resolved or not. If it is resolved, either leave it bypassed or get a new sensor, if it is not fixed, run new leads from the headlight back to the relay.

Volvo Relays