My car died on me Tuesday (2 days ago) and had to have it towed. The mechanic called yesterday and said the ignition coil needs replaced. Today, they call and say they have gone through 2 coils and need to keep looking. They said their electrical guy won't be in till Monday 6/25.

Each time they put on a coil, it would start but wouldnt stay running long enough for them to test the alternator or anything else.

I replaced the alternator this past weekend (bad voltage regulator) and the car, like I said, died on me Tuesday.

Any suggestions I can provide the mechanic? I replaced throttle position sensor about 2 months ago. Would it be the ignition switch? Does the switch work only to start the car and then it does not do anything other than that? Or is it constantly telling the car to stay running?

HELP....thanks guys/gals.

 

you don't say what kind of car, but if the coils are blowing, I'd suspect the ignition power stage. or the mechanic. or both.

 

1990 240dl....

kinda wondering about the mechanic....
would the car start if the power stage is the problem?

 

It could be the mechanic but I find it hard to believe. Installing a coil can't be simpler and it's the same on all cars. It is possible that the ignition module is bad.

 

ok...a coil finally worked...apparently the 2 borg/warners were crap....

Now, the same problem is still there. The alternator isn't keeping the battery charged. Now I am going to have to find where the draw is.

 

measure the voltage across the battery when the car has been off for an hour. start the car, measure the voltage again, it should be at LEAST 1V higher.

if its not, then something is wrong with the alternator or the charging circuit, *WHICH INCLUDES THE DASHBOARD WARNING LIGHT*.

if the battery is getting fully charged (should be almost 14V across the battery when the engine is running and the battery is fully charged), but its dead the next morning, try this... shut off everything electrical in the car you can (radio, fan, lights), shut the car off, disconnect the PLUS terminal from the battery, and connect an amp meter(*) between the + battery and the car's positive terminal. you /should/ see 0.0 amps, but if you don't, then disconnect the extra wires from the positive terminal, and check them one at a time, with the amp meter between one of those wires and the battery +

the really big red wire goes to the starter and alternator.
another red wire goes to the cars 'positive' terminal junction which is a black plastic rectangle near the left strut tower with a whole pile of red wires.
another red wire goes to the fuel injection fuse.
other power wires may have been added for custom stereo gear, trailer lights, etc.

find out which of these the power drain is on by hooking them up to the amp meter one at a time


(*) most all digital volt meters have a 10 Amp range, where you move the plus lead to a separate socket, and set the mode switch into 10 amp mode. NEVER HOOK AN AMP METER ACROSS A VOLTAGE SOURCE. it MUST be put in series with a load. hook the red lead of the meter up to the battery PLUS terminal, and the black lead of the meter to the connector or wire that normally would be hooked up to that same plus terminal.

when you're done using amps mode, ALWAYS put the meter back in normal mode.

 

Pierce, thanks for your time. I am a complete idiot when it comes to electrical. I am not afraid to get greasy and change things...but things that require finesse like electrical...it paralyzes me.

I am going to charge the battery and drive it to a shop that specializes in auto electric components. I will let you know what they say.

Your advice is always appreciated