Hey all,

Back with some interior improvements that consisted of attaching things that were buried in the rear compartment. Other than that, my motor is running like crap. What I bought was a US 83 245. Odd setup though, its a b23 (I think, with these mods I'm not so sure anymore) that was retrofitted with a carb and converted to points ignition. Thing is, the points are shot and I'm not sure what motor to source them from. It has a brownish red bolt on distributor cap and that's about all I've got to go off of. I see that there are 2 available on kgtrimning and on rock auto its hard to guess for what year I'm looking at.

Where on the block can I look for the engine type or code to know if I'm dealing with a swap? And if I pull the points, will a part number be on it? Could I possibly even salvage it? I know they're cheap, but I can't afford to have my car down for longer than an evening.

 

Even stranger, this bolt on distributor cap has underneath it, the clip on style rotor. At least this is what I'm gathering fro. The distinctions on rock auto. What the heck guys...

 

get the part number off the distributor body, stamped in metal, and if its a Bosch distributor, it should be possible to find the correct points and rotor+cap.

but, OMG, running breaker points and carbs ? how medieval.

 

Yeah, I know right. I suppose I can take it in stride though and find comfort in the fact that I bought this Volvo for its simplicity and just like my airhead beemers, I can drive with the piece of mind knowing that were something to fail, I can have a rather inexpensive and easily diagnosable replacement on hand. I plan on taking this cross country when its all said and done and if these parts were retrofitted in the first place, they probably failed. Due to time or neglect, I don't know. What I do know is that while travelling down HWY 50, I'll have my tool roll, oil and filter, a clutch cable, an extra set of points, rotor, cap, coil, and whatever else I deem necessary. Can't order an ignition module or diagnose it for that matter in the desert... The optimist in me says I'm lucky! Anywho, I'll check that out in the morning!

 

as far as engine identification marks, all I've ever seen is the paper label on the timing belt cover, which isn't very robust and often very faded. I'm sure there's probably some way to tell from the block and head serial numbers or casting code or whatever, but I don't know what it is. oldest volvo I've worked on is a 1987, which we bought new.

 

This is what I got. Apparently I should have thought this through a bit more though because in reinstalling the worn points and trying to start her up...I was met with a louder than shotgun BANG! I'm afraid lol. What did I do? Or rather, can you screw up the timing bad enough to ruin your engine??

 

check the compression in all 4 ?

btw, *THAT* is your air filter??? eeek. you want that engine to last, you need way more air filter than that.

 

So it turns out that this dizzy is from a penta boat motor. The cap alone is $60... So what I'm hoping to do is be able to replace the points alone from the Canadian model, possibly the rotor and cross my fingers. Curiosity is killing me though as to whether the white "Chrysler distributor cap" will be compatible. Won't hurt to try I suppose. Other than that, I've got a clutch cable ordered as well.

Eventually, I'm sure I'll just need to replace the whole shebang with the proper parts...but if I were to go to electronic ignition, what else would I need? Is there an ignition module or is it all contained to the distributor, pickup, rotor, and coil?

 

I put a distributor from a 1974 240 in my 122. the 74 had a 2l b20 with fuel injection.
the ignition box is pretty basic so it was an easy swap. im not sure if the distributor would fit , but maybe?
Ive got an ignition box from about the early 70's that I thin is intended to use the contact breaker points. Ive never tried using it , it's got 4 wires. somethign like that might be ok because then the points can stay there but they dont; conduct so much current.. the 74 uses a hall sensor but it was primitive enough to work on my 122 without a wiring nightmare.

otherwise Im not sure but check ebay. I gust found a whole distributor with cap and rotor for my 88 740 with a hall sensor,, that one goes at the back of the block so it's way different but it was a cheap knockoff made in china for sure but it fit right on and was under 100 bucks with cap rotor and all.
so maybe there are others like that that would fit and work? I wanted to swap the hall sensor but the distributor complete was cheaper.. il probably put the original one back but it was good enough to prove my issue wasnt' the hall sensor again , I just replaced it a few months ago.

I.ve never seen a cap like that on a volvo car so that makes sense,, the curve is probably set to make it lug. I know someone that put a penta motor in a 122 and I guess they have a low RPM cam in them. you can dump the clutch and go ,, in 3rd ;-)

makes sense to get rid of the carbs and computer, you are right it's more reliable like that if you keep it up. It doesn't look like it has a vacuum advance even.. ;-)

is your whole engine from a penta?

the points don.t really look any different from a 122 I dont think but I guess that isnt' certain of anything. you could try them. i think a 122 has a post that is supposed to stay on the distributor plate and the breaker points drop on the pin and I see yours doesn;t have the pin, did it break off?

I sold al 89 240 to my brother and he did that, He put dual SU's on it and a distributor and fuel pump and junked all the electronics. Its a little slower but it works. finding the right manifold is the hardest part. he might have used an older block. i forget.

 

stock setup on a 1983 240 was probably Chrysler "MPG" electronic ignition... the Bosch distributor has a hall sensor, this is connected to an ICU mounted on the right fender behind the headlights... this ICU has a vacuum advanced :-O ... anyways, the ICU drives the ignition coil directly without a power module (power modules were common on the Bosch EZK systems used on 740/940).

the ICU also has inputs for a knock sensor (retards if it detects pinging), and a full throttle enrichment switch.


hey, my parts catalog suggests the B23F is the correct engine for a 1983, not a B230F, those were used later. it says a B23F distributor could be Bosch 0.237.032.001 or 0.231.170.302 or 0.237.002.038 ... I have no idea which is what.

btw, the Volvo Penta boat motor parts are *always* way more expensive than car parts.