I would like to know what I can expect if I have to replace my headgasket. Is there any special tools required to do this? Is there anything I need to look for, a common problem perhaps? What should I have the machinist do to the head? I would just like to know what I am facing before I have to dive in and have no idea. Can I find schematics somewhere like torque figures for headbolts etc...?

 

Easiest HG out there, no special tools needed. And I'll catch flack for this, but if you don't want to spend the $, I wouldn't do the head absent overheating history. You can reuse the bolts. The job then becomes pretty easy and cheap... And if you screw up the timing, no engine damage!

Of course, it's still a HG, meaning that it presupposes that you have at least mid level skill around engines and posses some tools... You can just Google the engine specs, they are everywhere... I use brickboard.com

Good luck!

 

^ yeah, brickboard is the best. When I did mine, I used new bolts, but probably didn't need to. While you have the head out, you should go ahead and do a valve job, I wish I had done that but just didn't have the time.

If you are just looking for pointers--take pictures of stuff before you start taking it apart, or use a notebook, be careful with the distributor and you'll need exhaust and intake manifold gaskets as well. I would not re-use them.

It's also a good time to replace a bunch of stuff that you've been putting off--like timing belts, water pump, spark plugs, wires, etc.....

 

thanks for the replies, will have to pick up an exhaust gasket as I have the intake and head gasket on order, also its had a timing belt, water pump, plugs and wires. still probably put in a new set of plugs though, will have the machinist check the valves see what kind of shape there in. Does anyone know where to get the metal line that runs from the water pump and around the backside of the motor?

 

The heater pipe has had several permutations over the years. It should still be available new from Volvo. Our local machine shop trues or skims aluminum heads for $25. Pretty cheap insurance; they also double check the head for cracks and such. Replacing the cam, crank and intermediate shaft seals at the time the head work is done is always good. Not imperative but nice.

 

don't be surprised if one or more exhaust header studs strip or break, they get pretty darn rusty... If it happens, you have to helicoil in a replacement stud.

$25 is probably on the low side for shaving a head, out here in $California$ it was more like $40.

 

I will at least have the head pressure checked and shaved. No since in doing to cheap of a job since that is sort of a gamble to do so without the extra work. Will call 2moro about that heater pipe.

 

what year/model car is this b230f from? I could look up the PN of that pipe on VADIS.

 

check to see if the head is flat before you do anything to it. Shaving the head increases the compression ratio and since the timing gear is now closer to the crank changes the valve timing. (think about it) Use straightedge and feeler gage to see if head is flat, if it is there is no reason to do anything to it.

 

the usual shave is down around 0.002" so hardly effects compression or timing angle enough to matter. main purpose of a shave is to provide a really clean smooth surface for the new head gasket.

 

yeah exactly what I was thinking, its a very small amount but enough to make it true again, and its a 90 model GL

 

ummmm... is that 240 or 740 GL ? afaik, they made both in 1990.

coolant pipe for a 1990 240 should be 1332032

for a 1990 740, its 3514430 (unless its a turbo).
up to 1989, was a different number.

 

its a 740 gl