The car I'm working on is an 89' 740 gl Bosch EFI...B230F w/ a 2.3 liter...

 

Hi... I changed the RS relay to the original one that goes for this car( sumone put one from another car with only 3 wires) anyhow...I'm gettin 12 volts to my injectors now, I ran a FI diagnostic test and its only is testing the Idle C. Valve.. I tried to start and it sputtered and died...I'm thinkin the cold start valve is probably shot... dont think there anything else now that I have juice going to my F. Injectors..gonna pull the C.S.V. and clean it up to see if anything changes...if anything I'll switch my 91' over to this 89' and see if it starts....I'll be back...this thing will start today...I'm determined...

 

afaik, there is no cold start valve on LH2.4, just the idle regulator, which is an air bypass.

 

Okay.. I took apart the trottle body, cleaned it, cleaned TPS, could see the C.S.Valve, hook up all neccesary connecters, hooked the voltimeter up to the wires(C.S.V) turned the key to 2 and no volts...meanwhile my injectors had 12 volts...okay. went to my 91' (as a reference)and unplugged the wires to the C.S.V and turned the key to 2 and I got 12 volts... before I did all this i took apart sum of the harnessto the 89' I made a note of the wires that go into the C.S.V which are blk/gry and (blu/grn which go directly to the F.Injectors), the blk/gry wire goes to the ECU..I'm assuming that the blk/gry wires path is from the ECU to the C.S.V...well that curcuit aint throwing no juice....kind of stumped...could it be the ECU thats not good? and could I draw 12 from another source and put a relay in between...? I'm also assuming that the C.S.V only works upon initial engagement of startin the engine then shuts off when the car is running...not a rocket scientist but I try to use logic... can sumbody give me sum input...?

 

Okay.. I took apart the trottle body, cleaned it, cleaned TPS, could see the C.S.Valve, hook up all neccesary connecters, hooked the voltimeter up to the wires(C.S.V) turned the key to 2 and no volts...meanwhile my injectors had 12 volts...okay. went to my 91' (as a reference)and unplugged the wires to the C.S.V and turned the key to 2 and I got 12 volts... before I did all this i took apart sum of the harnessto the 89' I made a note of the wires that go into the C.S.V which are blk/gry and (blu/grn which go directly to the F.Injectors), the blk/gry wire goes to the ECU..I'm assuming that the blk/gry wires path is from the ECU to the C.S.V...well that curcuit aint throwing no juice....kind of stumped...could it be the ECU thats not good? and could I draw 12 from another source and put a relay in between...? I'm also assuming that the C.S.V only works upon initial engagement of startin the engine then shuts off when the car is running...not a rocket scientist but I try to use logic... can sumbody give me sum input...?

 

There was a TSB from Volvo years ago to correct hard startinjg on 7 series cars, both Regina and Bosch. The cold start injector was running too long. The fix was to power the injector from the starter rather than through the ecu and temp sensor. So...it's possible the fix has been done on the 91 but not the 89. Check for voltage on the 89 when the key is in the start position. Also, the cold start circuit was on a timed circuit...it will only run X number of seconds regardless when in original configuration.

 

if the CSV is still wired to the ECU, putting the OBD into fuel test mode 3 per that URL I gave above should pulse the CSV and all the injectors with the engine off and fuel pump not running, making it easy to test probe their electrical operation...

here's the link again: Engine and OBD Diagnostic Codes