My daughter's 240 sputters and dies when it gets down to just over a quarter of a tank of gas. Seems to me I've seen other posts with a remedy to this problem. No other problems or symptoms until the tank empties to this level. Any suggestions?

 

Don't know the year but if you have 2 fuel pumps it sounds like the fuel pump or the pump hose in the tank is bad. Open the gas cap and have someone start the c and listen for the pump to run in the tank. It is there to prime the main pump under the driver side of the car. If you change the pump you also need to change the little flexible hose on the pump.

 

torn intake pump hose. Replace with SUBMERSIBLE fuel line. Regular stuff isn't mean to live in gasoline. I also suggest the IPD bung tool. Much easier than hitting thinks with a flathead and a hammer and also much safer when working around gasoline. The odds of a spark finding fumes back there is low, but why chance it? I did it the other day at work on a chevy tank on the ground (hammer and flathead to bung nut) but proper tools will make life better.

Also dont knock the ping pong ball float off the sender during the repair. Will be very frustrating trying to fish it back out. Be careful and work slowly.

 

Check out this site. Tells you everything you need to know on how to diagnose and fix your problem.

In the Tank - 240 Volvo Tank Pump and Sender

 

It's gonna be a torn flex hose in the sending/tank pump unit. This one is easy. Or possibly a dead tank pump causing the main pump to struggle. However, my dead tank pump caused the car to sputter only when just about to run outta gas. Car would run fine at 1/4 tank.

Paperclip method is valid to fire the pumps. So easy to access the fuses. Jumper wire would be better if solo.

I like popping the cover off the relay and pinching the contacts closed to listen for fuel pump/s operation.

 

my dead tank pump caused my '92 740 turbo to sputter below 1/3rd tank. YMMV.

 

TURBO cars need more fuel pressure so that makes sense. Non turbo cars barely ever see 2.5 or 3 bar. Positive pressure cars will go OVER 3 bar when getting into boost. They are much more sensitive to lack of fuel pressure. Or I could be talking from my ****.

Either way, I suggest you start with a listen-test. Fire up the pumps with paperclip method. Paper clip is entry level stuff. I use a proper jumper lead with alligator clip ends so I can do it by myself, and listen down into the fuel filler with a hose. You can easily hear the pump. If you don't hear the pump, get the highest quality replacment you can and it will come with a section of appropriate hose. Just use hose clamps and not plastic hose clamp crap that came with my NAPA Carter fuel pump. Noisy as hell and had one crap fast. Other cheapos have been reported to have the terminals backwards. Buy the best one you can.

 

turbo LH2.4 uses the exact same fuel pressure as non-turbo LH 2.4, 42-44PSI above manifold. turbos need more fuel VOLUME under full load, and under boost, manifold vacuum is positive rather than negative

 

Incorrect Pierce. 3 bar at "0 psi" is the spec. I challenge you to look at fuel pressures once you go to the other side of vacuum and into the boost realm.

 

Thank you everyone! This sounds like the remedy to this ongoing problem. I plan to replace the in-tank fuel pump and sending unit. I discovered major rust when I pulled the unit out earlier.

 

Good morning! (sips coffee)

Please post back with the results!