K jet to LH 2.4 swap.. No spark?
#21
08-09-2013, 04:40 PM
no spark is your fundamental problem?
lets see... I do believe I'd get a 12V LED test light, and check to ensure there's power at the coil pin 15 (blue wires) when the ignition is on. now hook the test light to coil pin 1 (red/white wires?) and crank the car, the light should blink. one red-white wire goes to the power module pin 1, the other goes to the tach in the dashboard (if you have one, otherwise should be unconnected and insulated).
if thats blinking, then your coil should be making spark. time to look at the distributor and/or coil-to-distributor HV wires.
ensure you have power at Power Module pin 4 (should be wired to a blue wire to coil pin 15), and ground on power module pin 2 (black), which should be grounded together with the ICU pin 20 (brown-black) on the 'logic' side of the intake manifold grounds.
If the power and ground stuff is AOK, then see if you get blink-blink on pin 5 (grey wire inside shield, shield is connected to pin 3) when you crank the car over.
if you see pulses on power module pin 5 but not on pin 1 or coil pin 1, then the power module is fried.
If you're not seeing those pulses, power module pin 5 comes from the ICU pin 16.
ensure the ICU gets power on pin 5 (red wire) all the time (this is from an inline fuse direct off the battery on a 1990 [same inline fuse on the left fender well that powers the ECU and injection system], and fuse 6 on a 1991+). the ICU gets power on pin 6 (blue wire) when the ignition is on.
the crank position sensor has 2 wires and a grounded shield to the ICU. CPS pin 3 goes to the black wire and grounded shield and to ICU pin 11. CPS pin 1 goes to blue-yellow to ICU pin 10, and CPS pin 2 goes to red-yellow to ICU pin 23. these last two are a low level differential signal, and unless you have an oscilloscope, its probably impossible to read this.
ICU pin 17 is an amplified/cleaned up (logic level) version of this CPS signal that goes on a brown wire to ECU pin 1, indicating RPM, this is critical to vehicle operation. you should see pulses on this signal when the vehicle is cranking over. if you don't, then either the ICU or the CPS is the root problem.
lets see... I do believe I'd get a 12V LED test light, and check to ensure there's power at the coil pin 15 (blue wires) when the ignition is on. now hook the test light to coil pin 1 (red/white wires?) and crank the car, the light should blink. one red-white wire goes to the power module pin 1, the other goes to the tach in the dashboard (if you have one, otherwise should be unconnected and insulated).
if thats blinking, then your coil should be making spark. time to look at the distributor and/or coil-to-distributor HV wires.
ensure you have power at Power Module pin 4 (should be wired to a blue wire to coil pin 15), and ground on power module pin 2 (black), which should be grounded together with the ICU pin 20 (brown-black) on the 'logic' side of the intake manifold grounds.
If the power and ground stuff is AOK, then see if you get blink-blink on pin 5 (grey wire inside shield, shield is connected to pin 3) when you crank the car over.
if you see pulses on power module pin 5 but not on pin 1 or coil pin 1, then the power module is fried.
If you're not seeing those pulses, power module pin 5 comes from the ICU pin 16.
ensure the ICU gets power on pin 5 (red wire) all the time (this is from an inline fuse direct off the battery on a 1990 [same inline fuse on the left fender well that powers the ECU and injection system], and fuse 6 on a 1991+). the ICU gets power on pin 6 (blue wire) when the ignition is on.
the crank position sensor has 2 wires and a grounded shield to the ICU. CPS pin 3 goes to the black wire and grounded shield and to ICU pin 11. CPS pin 1 goes to blue-yellow to ICU pin 10, and CPS pin 2 goes to red-yellow to ICU pin 23. these last two are a low level differential signal, and unless you have an oscilloscope, its probably impossible to read this.
ICU pin 17 is an amplified/cleaned up (logic level) version of this CPS signal that goes on a brown wire to ECU pin 1, indicating RPM, this is critical to vehicle operation. you should see pulses on this signal when the vehicle is cranking over. if you don't, then either the ICU or the CPS is the root problem.
#22
08-10-2013, 02:32 AM
the greenbook you really want is TP 32135/1, 'Engine Management LH 2.4/ EZ 116 K 240 1989-1993". this has pretty much the same EFI stuff as the one TItan linked, plus the ignition stuff and updated info about trouble shooting from OBD codes
but these books still don't have the actual wiring diagrams of the cars, just the general concepts. they do detail what pins of the ECU and ICU do what function. The actual wiring diagram for a 1990 240 is TP 31558/1... since thats the harnesses you used, thats the closest to what you're trying to create, and it would be ideal if you followed it as closely as possible.
but these books still don't have the actual wiring diagrams of the cars, just the general concepts. they do detail what pins of the ECU and ICU do what function. The actual wiring diagram for a 1990 240 is TP 31558/1... since thats the harnesses you used, thats the closest to what you're trying to create, and it would be ideal if you followed it as closely as possible.
Last edited by pierce; 08-11-2013 at 08:40 AM.
#23
08-10-2013, 06:11 PM
Super Moderator
#24
08-10-2013, 06:29 PM
#25
08-12-2013, 11:15 PM
#26
08-14-2013, 02:01 PM
that image wouldn't embed.
try here...
https://public.bn1.livefilestore.com...ram.gif?psid=1
but man those all-in-one diagrams are hard to follow
try here...
https://public.bn1.livefilestore.com...ram.gif?psid=1
but man those all-in-one diagrams are hard to follow
#28
02-16-2016, 11:53 PM
Fuel Pump Relay
Peirce, You said one half sends power to injector and ECU. If my Fuel pump Relay was bad, would that cause no power to ECU and thus no spark??
My 92 240 wagon will not start, parked it after driving 20 mins. then had a 17 degree night, hasn't stared since. No spark and I don't hear a fuel pump running, but I'm getting fuel to the engine and plugs. Also the Diagnostic shows all fuel systems check out.
My 92 240 wagon will not start, parked it after driving 20 mins. then had a 17 degree night, hasn't stared since. No spark and I don't hear a fuel pump running, but I'm getting fuel to the engine and plugs. Also the Diagnostic shows all fuel systems check out.
#29
02-17-2016, 12:44 AM
#30
02-17-2016, 07:20 AM
i have no spark at all. replaced crank sensor, coil, battery, spark plug wires, ignition module and heat sink, checked all fuses for resistance and volts. i replaced the knock sensor just because the diagnostic was giving me the code. Not sure where to start next. Only reason i didnt think it was a fuel problem is after trying to start, i pulled plugs and they smell like gas.
#32
02-17-2016, 01:48 PM
#33
02-18-2016, 08:22 AM
#34
02-18-2016, 03:00 PM
as far as the connector vs a splice, um, either would work. I'd use a waterproof marine splice as the cheap crimps tend to corrode. presumably the connector is there to aid in harness installation/assembly when the car is being built.
#35
02-18-2016, 09:46 PM
Thank you very much Pierce. My LH fuel relay clicks when I turn the car on, but then clicks a second time. Is it clicking back off?
#36
02-18-2016, 10:05 PM
the LH relay has two relays inside of it. one half powers the ECU and rest of teh system, this comes on with the ignition and stays on, while the other half powers the fuel pump, it comes on for about 1 second when you turn on the key then turns off until the engine cranks over when it comes on again then turns off again when the engine stops for over 1 second.
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