I got an oil change about 1,500 miles ago, about a month or so in time, with 10w30 regular, non synthetic oil from a Promto. I just went out and checked the dipstick, the car has been off for about 24 hours now so not warm at all, and checked it and there was about a cm or less of oil touching the bottom part of the dipstick not where its the xxxxxx part. I just cleaned out my intercooler lines and turbo and found no oil in those, so i think that means my turbo isn't leaking? There isn't any noticible drips in my engine, however there is a drip or 2 when i park overnight in my garage. How much is the resulting to in loss? Any way of knowing if im leaking or if im just burning it up? Also where are some good signs to check where its leaking from for starters?

Also there still a problem with fuel dripping from near/around my fuel filter and pump thats all black and greasy, hoping its that color and texture from just collecting up on my undercoating, however could there be any oil leaking in that area at all?

 

You have a 20 year old car with over 180k on it. You should be glad that it is even running.

Now, No I don't believe oil is leaking through the fuel system.

Not sure if you are leaking that much oil or burning that much. Could be a combination of the two. If you were not running synthetic oil before, that could be your problem. Not a good idea to switch to synthetic on a worn engine. Top it off, check it every 1,000 miles. Add oil when needed. If you don't see train smoke from the exhaust while driving, don't worry to much about burning oil. You can live with a little oil burning from a car that is as old as yours.

 

So you dont think i should switch to synthetic on the next change? Im going to just top it off for now, but im due in another change soon before my trip

 

You'll probably get every school of thought on whether to swap to syn or stay w/ dino oil. The main positive is synthetic doesn't coke up in the turbo the way dino oil can if you shut the turbo down super hot. I run synthetic in 2 of my Volvos...but the motors each ave less than 5k on block up rebuilds. With the miles you have, and the fact that your Brick is a little loose...I'd stay w/ dino oil. It's chehaper and just fine.
Food for thought...did you happen to check the oil level after the last oil change? A lot of oil change places will short you a good half quart and some use super low viscosity oil.
Finally...a turbo car of your vintage in excellent, non-rebuilt shape, will use a quart in 1500 miles. Assuming your car was actually filled, you've used twice that. Your car holds 4 quarts including filter.When oil is just on the tip of the stick, you're down 2 quarts...meaning you've been driving around w/ only 2 quarts of motor oil in your engine. If you plan on keeping the car much longer, I'd recommend checking the oil at every fill up...and keep extra oil in the trunk so you don't slack on the upkeep.

 

Wait, I thought you said you DID switch to synthetic. Since you have not, I would advise you NOT to. If you have small leaks or weak points in the oil system, areas prone to leak, it will leak or leak WORSE with synthetic, so I've been told. Only switch to synthetic if you have a tight system. And if you are loosing 1 to 2 quarts of oil every 1,500 miles, DON'T DO IT.

As for your motor, I agree with SwiftJustice44, check your oil often and keep a spare quart. If you keep it clean and filled you can stop the degrading of your motor. If you let it go like the last time you will pay sooner than later.

I use synthetic in all of my cars now. It doesn't break down as fast as dino/regular oil. All of my cars were in good shape when I switched and I think my T-5R already had synthetic in it when I purchased it. Likely Royal Purple, it was so clear.

 

Yeah i haven't myself put Synthetic in it, and I have no records or idea of what was done to the car before me. I bought some 10w30 and filled it up today when i got out of work. I put about half a quart in, and the engine was warm so im going to see where it levels off at before i drive home tonight after its been sitting for 8 hours and fill accordingly. This is where my Noob comes into play. If i check the oil when the car is hot, as if i were to check it at the gas station, my engines going to be hot, and for some reason it always shows a less when its warm, then it does if its cold. So should i be checking it cold or hot, and how does the levels vary if at all. Also for a non synthetic oil, whats the best i could use, or are they all the same, im running 10w30, ive thought and read alot about doing 15w30 or 20w50, any ideas? Also between the Full and Low marks on the dipstick, is that a quart of measuring? just to know how much im using.

 

Yes, the difference between the 2 marks is 1 quart. I just the very tip is wet, that means 2 qts. low You can check the oil anytime...cold in the morning is best. The dipstick goes into the crankcase, the bottom of the engine. When the engine is warm, the oil has been pumped throughout the engine and has not had time to completely run down to the crankcase. So...the absolute most accurate measurement is when the engine has been shut down for an extended period of time. BUT...don't let the engine being warm keep you from checking the oil...you'll end up w/ a blown motor. ******* an old turbo car (and yes, it IS fun) will cause you to go through oil faster. You're young, have fun...but keep some spare oil in the trunk and check the oil EVERY fill up.

 

My 88 740 wagon goes though oil kind of fast too. And I only have 143K on it. Between oil changes I ended up adding about 2 quarts total. Although I check it frequently and add as needed. I have no oil leaks or trails of blue smoke. Im assuming it burns a miniscule amount constantly. Just check it everytime you fill it up with gas.

 

+1 with SwiftJustice44 again. However, if the car has been sitting for 5 minutes, your oil level on your dipstick will be very close. If I have been driving for 5 hours, and pull into a gas station. I will fill up with gas, pay for it, then check the oil last. That gives the oil time to drain back into the oil pan. From 5 minutes to several hours a little more may make it down to the pan but it won't be enough to matter.

I always use Castrol. But I believe just about all oils put detergents, etc. in them. (Someone correct me if I'm wrong). Once upon a time I mechanic would open a motor up to do a valve job or something like that and find SLUDGE in it. I don't think that happens anymore today. Especially on a motor that has had regular oil changes. I have had situations where my car has lost 1 quart of oil in 900 miles and then lose only 1/2 quart the next 2,500. So, normal checking is important.

I wouldn't switch go to far if you decide to switch to a heavier weight oil. Try to stay within your owners manual guidance. I use to run 10W-40 a lot in my B230 engine. Switching to a thicker oil should cause it to loose less oil through a burn but not a leak. Just don't go to thick for the temp in your area. It almost doesn't matter how many miles you have on a car. If someone starts to neglect oil changes things will go down hill. I had about 300,000 on my 740 when I decided NOT to CHECK or CHANGE the oil for about 20,000 miles. By the time I did I was 3 quarts low and had a worn piston chamber(s). Only lasted about 10,000 to 15,000 miles after that. Changed the motor and drove another 70,000 before I gave the car away.

 

Totally agree, 5-10 minutes and the oil level is close enough to check. Most name brand oils today are marked HD for high detergent. Some stores will sell non-detergent oils for old mowers and such. The isuue with multi-viscosity oils is that they get their added protection from additives. A 10W-30 is the same viscosity as a 10W-40. It's 10 weight oil. The second number refers to the fact that it will protect as well as a 30W or 40W oil in higher temps. All oils thin with heat; check the cooking oil in a skillet. On an older motor, 30W oil is a good choice. When I was younger and finances meant I had to drive some less than stellar cars I was known to use 40W or even 50W motor oil. The thicker the oil, the less will sneak by worn piston rings and valve seats/guides and seals. Single viscosity oils don't wear out per se. They do get dirty but retain their viscosity much longer than multi-vis oils. Multi-vis oils lose their higher protective values over time and mileage because the additives cook out. Multi-vis oils came about for a couple of reasons; Americans are horrible about maintaining their cars. If you live up north, you really don't want to have 30, 40 or 50W oil in the winter. Not only will it be hard to start but also oil pressure will be sky high. If the car does start you need to idle it until the o.p. drops to normal. The other reason multi-vis came around is it takes less crude oil to make a quart of 10W oil than it does 30W. Oil companies and auto manufacturers have been in lock step for decades. Since the thinner oils sell for the same price, the profit line goes up. Changing motor oil regularly is paramount whether you use single weight oil or multi-vis. Sludge will occur no matter what sort of oil you use. It clogs passages and causes premature bearing and ring failure. The following pictures are of a 1999 4.3L Chevy motor with 42,000 miles on it. Pretty scary stuff especially as it was a city owned/maintained vehicle. The oil was changed regularly but by a fleet maintenance truck that sucked the oil out through the dip stick hole. All the sediment remained in the oil pan...for years!!

 

So you think staying with a 10w30 would work well. Also whats a Synthetic blend? Is that just another word for one of the things you were saying up top? I put some regular Valvoline in the other day a full quart and its about a little higher than half now, and its running a little quieter. Thanks for all the help