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Leaky 740

  #1  
Old 02-13-2019, 12:13 PM
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Default Leaky 740


Iím considering buying an 1986 740 GLE wagon, it has a few issues but it runs and drives. We took it to firestone and got it checked out and on the sheet it says thereís a leak from the automatic transmission. When driving the trans takes awhile to shift up like itís low on fluid but it has enough for it to shift normally. Hoping a few people will come across this and tell me if I should buy this car for $800 as my first car and how about how much it would cost to repair the trans, link pins, and ball joints. The engine runs strong but seems a little slow, idk how this car should drive but thereís no engine light so idk if I should be worried. Thank you in advance.
 
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Old 02-13-2019, 05:05 PM
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Do you know how to check the transmission fluid level? You need to drive the car for I would say minimum 15 minutes, then put it in park, keep it running. Now hold it with the brakes and shift into each gear while running. Hold it in each gear for 5 seconds, go through that twice. Start in P, go all the way down to L1 or whatever the lowest is on the selector. Then, pop the hood and while it is running pull the dip stick and wipe it off then re-insert it and check your level. It is probably low considering the age. Is that mileage correct? 306k? Is this wagon solid? How is the interior? This would affect the price imo. Link pins and ball joints....I would say 500 if you brought it to a shop, that includes labor and parts. I think parts should be in the 200 range but not sure. Sounds like you will need to change some bulbs and add some brake fluid and tires. I bought 4 15" for my 740 (
Amazon Amazon
) and it was about 300 for them, I mounted and installed them myself.

I would drive it, check all fluids, and see how it is. By that I mean after you topped off all fluids and drive it, let it sit for a hour and see what kind of leak you are dealing with. If it is minor, drive it and just know you need to keep an eye on fluid levels.
 
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Old 02-13-2019, 06:04 PM
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Thank you so much that helped a lot. The paint is fading on the outside and the interior has a few rips on the seats, thereís no headliner either. The miles are correct for the body and trans but the engine was swapped for a unknown (assuming lower) miles engine.
 
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Old 02-13-2019, 06:27 PM
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Looks good. My '91 has the same issues, paint, no headliner (I guess all of these have a headliner issue) and ripped seats. I would drive it and check for leaks, and ask about the replacement engine. If you like it, maybe say 600 bucks cash or something I mean over 300k on a 33 year old car with issues, they should take it.
 
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:23 PM
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I would never take such type of report seriously. They are looking to sell, know nothing about a 300k Volvo. Some of these could be valid, but hard to say, thus hard to offer any opinion.

Sure a 300k Volvo will need things, if you are handy it may be OK to take on, if you take it to a shop to fix, it will be too much which is the story will all old cheap cars...
 
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Old 02-14-2019, 02:42 AM
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Before taking it to the shop and looking at the receipt I knew there were problems with the rear brakes (pad and rotor metal on metal), the trans issue I talked about earlier, the car being a little slow (I have no experiance with this car so idk if it was having problems accelerating but probably not), and the front wheels shaking at speeds over 60 (most likely wheels need to be balanced. I talked the guy down from $1200 to $800 and I think itís a good price for a running driving stopping car. Give me ur opinions on the car and if $800 is a good price. Thanks to anyone who replied earlier and who replies to this
 
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Old 02-14-2019, 02:45 AM
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Also when the seller backed it out of his garage I didnít notice any leaks and it had been sitting for awhile but I may be remembering wrong. When we checked under the hood I didnít notice any leaks there either
 
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Old 02-14-2019, 06:17 PM
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Generally, any 300k mile car is not easy to sell, especially one that needs that much done. I wouldn't pay anywhere near that, may be $400... Depends on where you are... I see now, Wash. state. Lots of decent 740/940 in the PNW for a grand.
Check the wiring, the 1986 models are especially prone to disintegrating wiring.
 

Last edited by lev; 02-15-2019 at 06:26 PM.
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Old 02-15-2019, 11:10 AM
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I didnít check the wiring but everything except the heated seats and the fuel gauge works. The speedometer works some of the time
 
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Old 02-15-2019, 12:36 PM
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Lev was referring to the main wire harness

If your engine has been swapped...probably a good chance the the wire harness was swapped. Could be wrong though.

Anyway, this link has a lot of info on the harness issues.

https://www.240turbo.com/volvoharnesses.html
 
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Old 02-16-2019, 09:32 PM
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So I bought the car and replaced the rear pads and rotors but the brake pistons wonít compress for me to get the new pads in. Iíve tried prying them and spraying anti corrosive liquid but nothingís working. The pads were a pain to get out since they were being run metal-on-metal for so long that the pad had started to dicintigrate and the rotor had worn into two parts. Iíll post a picture tomorrow of the rotor but is there anything I could do to get the pistons compressed?
 
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Old 02-17-2019, 09:04 AM
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if the pistons are seized badly they maybe would not work properly even if you got them freed up. i ran into the same issue and ended up getting rebuilt ones from rockauto. they were cardone rebuilt ate calipers. very reasonable price and work perfectly.
 

Last edited by silvermine; 02-17-2019 at 10:25 AM.
  #13  
Old 02-17-2019, 06:03 PM
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Ill see if pick n pull has any calipers I could use. Would calipers from a 1987 240 wagon work
 
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Old 02-17-2019, 10:23 PM
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They might work. Volvo used various suppliers, hard to say. Take a picture, compare them to the ones at PnP...
 
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Old 02-18-2019, 02:56 PM
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also measure the OD and thickness of the rotors of the two vehicles, I wouldn't use a caliber thats for a different rotor size....
 
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Old 02-19-2019, 07:45 PM
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The rotors fit the calipers with the pads. The brake lights and turn signals stopped working does anyone know if theyíre run off the same fuse or it itís an electric problem
 
  #17  
Old 02-19-2019, 08:39 PM
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well, your question doesn't really ask or mean much, fuses are a specific sort of electric problem. since lights are elecric, if they aren't working, yes, its an electric problem.

pretty sure those are on different fuses and different circuits.
 
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