Looking at a 88 240
I just got a 1988 240.
Here's what's wrong with it.... so far.
-RUST! didn't notice it eating up the driver side rear floor pan when I bought it(I'll let you know later how much this costs)
-Leaking transmission lines. (20$)
-heater fan not working. (?? I've heard it's a pain to change it out though)
-plastic on the inside of the older Volvos is falling apart, but one look at the interior should let you know how it's holding up.
-transmission mount was torn in half (5$)
- front wheel bearings still need replaced. (25$)
- Odometer not working (25$)
- changed all belts and hoses (50$)
Overall not bad, got it for 200$.
Here's what's wrong with it.... so far.
-RUST! didn't notice it eating up the driver side rear floor pan when I bought it(I'll let you know later how much this costs)
-Leaking transmission lines. (20$)
-heater fan not working. (?? I've heard it's a pain to change it out though)
-plastic on the inside of the older Volvos is falling apart, but one look at the interior should let you know how it's holding up.
-transmission mount was torn in half (5$)
- front wheel bearings still need replaced. (25$)
- Odometer not working (25$)
- changed all belts and hoses (50$)
Overall not bad, got it for 200$.
I've bought several 240's (5 maybe?) in this price range. Highly recommended if you do your own work.
Things to look for:
1.) Corrosion around fuel pump terminals on gas tank. (Has internal and external fuel pumps) Engine will run without internal pump working, but will probably vapor lock in hot weather. (These terminals are accessed through the trunk. Driver's side, under carpet.)
2.) Middle support bearing, that holds the drive shaft, binds up and then howling and slipping on drive shaft bearing on rubber bushing.
3.) Corrosion on fuses / bad spring contact.
4.) Rusted out uni-body supports around jack connectors under doors.
5.) Rust around uni-body door frames. (especially the back doors.)
6.) Check your rear lights often. - half the time one will have a poor connection and will be out. - You'll have a nifty dashboard indicator to tell you this, but I never trust it.
7.) Leaking brake manifold under drivers side seat. (on undercarriage.)
Nothing that I've listed would keep me from buying a 240 at this price.
These are very common problems.
One that would change my decision is a very rusted undercarriage.
Random thoughts:
Take a look at the transmission fluid if an automatic. Dark and dirty looking? Burnt? Should be cherry red.
Something to remember....Your battery light is an important part of your charging circuit.... If it burns out your charging system will not work.
If your timing belt breaks, you'll be fine. You have a non-interference engine if in the U.S. Double overhead cam engines are interference engines, but yours wont be. Don't let anyone tell you otherwise without checking this out completely.
Don't wait if you want this car. Junk cars are going for $250.00 here. That Volvo probably isn't junk.

Good luck.
Last edited by onetwothreetim; Apr 21, 2011 at 07:51 PM.
I would check the differential fluid as that is often neglected unless it is in the records. I'm speaking from experience, because I bought one with barely any fluid. Otherwise make sure the overdrive works. I'm guessing there is no oil leaking, so the PCV system should be all good from the maintenance records. Might want to check the motor and transmission mounts which will probably need replacing. For a clean 240, $500 is well worth it if you do most of your own minor work. Personally speaking, if a 240 has intact door pockets, it's worth every penny
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scottbr997
Volvo 240, 740 & 940
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Jul 29, 2005 12:10 PM




