This morning on my way to work I heard a loud hissing sound that sounded like it was coming from under the floorboard. It wasn't constant but about a half mile down the road it died and will not start. 1990 740 gle with 213,000 miles. I'm thinking a vacuum hose but I'm not sure.

 

Hissing sounds is a vacuum leak most likely, or a snake, which is not likely...
Doubt it's under the floorboard, as there is really no hoses there; it's probably from under the dash but it shouldn't kill the engine...

 

Did it overheat? Your heater hoses are on the firewall, driver side....check them out...

Did you smell fuel?

check your FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR HOSES....HOSES IN GENERAL....

 

turns out it was the timing belt. If any one has any tips I would like them

 

broke off then......holy crap-o-la....I read on another thread that after 90 the engines were interference....meaning if the belt ripped off, then the valves would hit the pistons.....but before you freak out....let us do more research on this...

It might have been in 92 that it became this way....

If you are planning to do the timing belt yourself...let us know..we can write up the steps...piece of cake.....5 out of 10 in difficulty and around 3 to 5 hours if you have not done this before.

 

Redblocks with SOHC (8-valve) are non-interference. You can break the timing belt at 6500 rpm and it will just need a timing belt replacement. Redblocks with DOHC (16-valve) are interference. You break the timing belt while running and you've toasted some valves. The DOHC setup is not all that common.

 

I am going to do this myself. I've done a chain on a 350 but never a volvo it doesn't look too hard but I'll take all the help I can get. Thanks again

 

Yeah, It's pretty straightforward for the redblocks. Pretty much remove the fan, remove the accessory belts, remove the crank pulley, pull the timing belt covers off, remove the tension on the belt by loosening the nut on the tensioner and compressing the tensioner spring. The belt slides right off. Align the pulleys to their marks and install the new one.

While you have it apart, check the cam, half-shaft & main crank seals. I generally replace them if I have any leakage around that area. Also, check the water pump while you have it apart. If there is any play on the water pump shaft or you are getting coolant seepage around it, I would replace it as well.

If you need further instructions, check out the 700/900 series FAQ over on Brickboard. It has more detailed instructions for timing belt changes (different car but same engine).

Good Luck

 

i was wondering with timing marks I use on the crank pully

 

I've heard some of the european redblocks, like the B230E (rather than the F version we got stateside) can be interference. if the head has been shaved excessively by prior gasket jobs and overly zealous machining, this too can lower the valves sufficiently that they touch. ditto high lift cams could push you into interference-zone, but less likely.

re: timing marks, any of the HOWTO's pretty much nail it.

see www.mikeponte.com
Engine. Seals, Belts, Crankcase Ventilation
Volvo B230 Timing Belt Alignment Marks