Took it for some offroading. Found a dirt road which was fun, but when I was on Porter road (Jeep territory) I didn't get very far until ground clearance stopped me.




offroad excursion 6/17 - Album on Imgur

 

I JUST ****ING RUINED MY CONDENSER. Started by trying to get the drier off and that line broke so I tried to get it off at the condenser side and then the line on the condenser broke. My ac was working hours ago, just not well. **** EVERYTHING.

 

Well, took it to the junkyard and borrowed some bolt cutters to get the condenser out of that '92. Need suggestions on how to remove the lines without breaking the condenser again. And the line that goes into the condenser still has the broken hardline stuck in it even though the nut is completely loose.

I hit 105 today. Car didn't seem too happy about it, but it handled the speed fine. And then my alternator stopped working. I barely got home and I think the belt just didn't have enough tension but the alternator still isn't producing much.

 

So I got my new drivers side tailgate harness in. Mostly went smoothish, but then because I always have to mess something up, I dropped one of the bolts for the hinge down the pillar. Guess that bolt is never seeing the light of day again and I'll have to find a new one. I now have all rear lights working, minus one of the plate lights, but I still get that damned bulb light in the dash when my foot is on the brake. All 3 brake lights are working, even the rear fog lights. What could be causing this?

 

I too have the dreaded inop lamp light when I hit the brakes. However, I'm use to seeing it on all the time due to the fact that I need to get some solder and a soldering iron to tack up a lead or two for the rear running lights.

If I remember correctly, from the last time I posted something bout this issue, check to see if you are running the correct bulbs for your running/brake lights.

Does anyone else see a difference when the rear fog lights are activated? Threw mine on this morning (had visibility of bout 200 feet) and didn't see any difference in 'brightness' before I headed to work this morning.

 

Got the other side wiring harness done and got a replacement bolt for the one that fell into the abyss. Decided screw it and dremeld off the lines at the condenser close to the nut and then used an impact to get them off which worked. Then I realized that the '92 condenser has the bottom line going down instead of up.. If I can get this working I'll be amazed.

 

I got the condenser all in and hooked up, fixed a leak, pulled a vacuum, put in a can of refrigerant/dye, and now there's a can of r134 hooked up to it. Low side is over 60PSI, high side isn't hooked up. Compressor will not kick on. I tried to jump the connectors on the pressure switch but nothing. Before everything was working fine, until I went and ruined the condenser.. So why the hell won't my compressor kick on? I've fiddled with the ac **** and the fan is on..

 

I guess it just didn't have a good connection on the tabs because I wiggled it around and bam, AC.

 

Dumped in a third can of R134 and it's blowing nice and chilly. Still below 30PSI on the low side though. Not sure what it's supposed to be at, so whatever. It's cold, I'm happy. I took some pics of the engine bay. What's this vacuum line supposed to go to?



6/28 - Album on Imgur

 

Also starting a few days ago I noticed a knocking from the transmission area when I go somewhat fast in first from a stop. Like, only when the clutch is slipping. The dash and **** rattles when I'm slipping the clutch in first, but the knocking is new. I can see the **** shaking back and forth and hear a loud knocking which happens a few times.

This is only when I'm accelerating somewhat quickly from a stop. Not full throttle, but not grandma speed either.

 

Yeah. Started out good by removing the seats and cleaning my carpet. Even finally found some money in the car that didn't fall out of my own pocket, a 1988 dime that had to have been under the carpet for at least a decade or two. Then I realized that in the back my left foot was deeper than my right so I pulled up the carpet and discovered that my car is basically a flintstones car for the person behind the drivers seat. Normally I wouldn't care too much and just not let anyone ride in that seat, but the drivers seat mount on the back left is hanging on by a thread..

Also I had to move the car with no seat. I felt very short.

Can I maybe just throw down some sheet metal and call it a day?

happy fourth of rust - Album on Imgur

 

So I just put some steel bar as bracing under the rusty floorboard and used the leftovers to hold up the drivers seat mount. Then just cut up some sheet metal and threw it on there. It's held in by the seatbelt bolt and sits on top of good metal. That's it. Sprayed down some anti rust crap and threw the insulation/carpet back on and called it a day. Feels much better sitting in the back. Nice and solid.

7/5 - Album on Imgur

 

http://newhaven.craigslist.org/cto/5636015984.html

Talked to that guy. He just wants the car gone. Like, he was willing to take $100. I really, really want the car, but unfortunately we just don't have the space for another brick and my friend's dad won't let him have a car yet. The owner is nice enough to let me get some parts from it before it gets shipped off to the junkyard. So, anyone want anything from it?

 

So I should be getting the correct condenser tomorrow. Eventually (In a few weeks or so, the AC is working right now even if it isn't great.) I'm hoping to replace the drier without ruining anything else, put in the right condenser, replace the shrader valve on the fill port as it currently leaks and the only thing holding the pressure in is the seal on the dust cap, and fill with Envirosafe. I know it's basically propane, but from what I've read it should work better than r134. Bigger molecules so it won't leak where r134 would, etc. 18 bucks for a pack of 3 6oz cans which should be enough to fill the system.

 

Went to see that guy with the 240 he's junking. He fired it up for me. Sounds and smells like the exhaust is broken before the cat, it was loud. I really wanted to take it because he was willing to drop down to $100 (Anyone near New Haven want it?) and just wanted it gone. Gave him $20 for a wheel with a new tire on it, the condenser, gas cap, touch up paint, since it's the same color (213) as my car, and the single hubcap that was remaining to complete my set. I just couldn't take the car home because it wasn't worth figuring out how to get it home and where to put it because we already have too many cars.

Washed off the wheel and shoved it in place of the donut. Fits perfectly. New gas cap went on and my car looks slightly less rusty. Compared to my car, that sedan had such little rust. Hell, the rockers were still in existence. What surprised me was that even though the scoopy bit on the front bottom of the car was gone, the splash pan was still there. Mine clearly has been gone for a long time.

 

Tried to get my cat off again. 50/50 acetone and ATF for days and an impact. Nada. Now what?

 

Got two of the bolts out. Took hours. Gave up on the last one and went to buy metal jigsaw blades and new bolts. It's goddamn loud, but I had fun. I love the jackhammery sound it makes around 4-5k. If the exhaust was like this, but quieter and less annoying, I'd be super happy. I was even able to get two dumb kids on bikes to move over by revving. I rev match when downshifting and with this exhuast, it sounds like a racecar. I love it, but there's no way in hell I could daily it like this.


At the start you can hear that knocking sound when I slip the clutch and get on the gas.

 

Put in the new condenser and some ester oil, pulled a vacuum for a little while, and charged it up with 3 cans of Envirosafe hydrocarbon crap. Supposed to work better than R134 in an R12 system. Tried as hard as I could to get the back line off the crusty drier, but it refuses to budge. Oh well. I also replaced the shrader valve in my low side adapter, but for some reason it still leaks until I put the sealed cap on it. Not a big deal though. The AC works really nicely now, definitely better than it was yesterday. But that was with a slightly kinked line on the crappy junkyard condenser and a bit underfilled.

I took it for a drive and the temperature started going up. It stayed a bit below the redzone so I shut the AC off and got it home. Checked the coolant tank and it was dry. I remember it being right at the max line with neon yellow coolant awhile back. I guess the problem was the line from the tank into the radiator, since the band clamp was rusted in half so I took it off, couldn't find one of the right size, and left it like that because I'm dumb. I couldn't tell if it was leaking for sure since the area was all wet from the excessive amounts of penetrating oil I used on the AC line.

I just threw a ziptie on the hose into the radiator and got some yellow universal crap to top off the tank. Took well over half a gallon and ran nice and cool afterwards. No white smoke or nothing.

 

sounds like a lot of good work, sadly i see a lot of these in the junk yards...too bad cause they go forever

 

Yeah, I've been to a couple junkyards and only found one 240. Lotta 740/940s though.