New Alt, New Bat meter shows just over 12V ...?

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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 10:16 PM
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Default New Alt, New Bat meter shows just over 12V ...?

Recently I had to buy a new alternator and a new battery.

Just last week it wouldn't start. The battery was able to be charged up and is holding at 12.45V. I took the Alt and it bench tested at 14V but in the car, running, it shows that it's putting out 12.08V MAX.

Not sure where to go from here.

Suggestions??
 
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Old Apr 20, 2013 | 11:45 PM
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what model do you have?

1) check your grounds
2) wires/cables to alternator...
 
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 02:56 AM
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It's likely an old cable or connection. That should be enough to keep you going.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 09:17 AM
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Make sure your dash "idiot" lights are working, especially the BATTERY symbol one--if that's out, the alternator will not start charging. Test this by measuring the volts between the posts with engine running: that 12V should jump to 14 after you rev up the motor to 2,500rpm to get the alternator "excited" that way...
 
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by lev
Make sure your dash "idiot" lights are working, especially the BATTERY symbol one--if that's out, the alternator will not start charging. Test this by measuring the volts between the posts with engine running: that 12V should jump to 14 after you rev up the motor to 2,500rpm to get the alternator "excited" that way...

In response to the other poster that asked what model, 93 940. And the idiot light doesn't not work. Wasn't sure about the bulb so I swapped it out with a known good one, and still no go.

From what I've been reading I should be able to run a jumper from batt to the alt, correct? Then I'll start getting ready to solder the board it looks like.

EDIT: Solved the charging issue by running a jumper between the battery and the exciter wire on the back of the alt. Wondering though if you can run the wire from the main lead to the jumper instead??
 

Last edited by Scott F; Apr 21, 2013 at 01:04 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2013 | 02:50 PM
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Yes, you have to resolder the circuit board to get it to work right, it's a little fiddly...
As I said in my post before, just REV THE MOTOR TO OVER 2,500RPM, and the alternator should kick in and start charging which is better than running wires and what not. I have a 740 that has an iffy board for years now, and I just rev it up when it's acting up and all's well... I must have done ten of this soldering jobs but when it comes to my own car, well, some day I'll get around to it.
 
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