Hello,

I've owned 6 or 7 Volvo's an I love them. I just bought this 91 740GL wagon with 142K for $500. It turns over but that's it. Appears to have been sitting for 2 or 3 years. I want to drain the gas as it's nasty and ranks like nothing I've ever smelled before. Where is the best place to start draining it? I've pulled off the fuel rail an I'm cleaning the fuel injectors as they were clogged. I have a Haynes manual for the 240's from 76-93, will this manual also apply to my 91 740GL? It's got the B230F label on the timing belt cover.

Once I get new gas in, clean injectors installed what next? Oh, I've replaced the fuel pressure regulator & pulled the plugs, which were fine.

When I insert the OBD plug into space #2 I get the code 1.1.1. which is good I think. Is there another space that I need to insert the plug? Can I reference this 240 manual for codes? Is my engine (non turbo) the LH-2.4 Jetronic system?

So, I hope I've given enough information to get this thread going an finally get this car started. I appreciate any an all feedback. Thanks,

jason

 

OK, so first things first... It turns over, is there a timing belt? Is there a spark? Gas, we know is bad...

To drain it, best way is to take the tank out but this is a lot of work... I'd siphon it out with a hose as much as possible, then run some cleaner, then fill it with fresh gas... Once it gets going the motor should burn the diluted fuel UNLESS it's so bad that it has contaminated the fuel filters and pump(s). Speaking of pump(s), do you have a Regina or Bosch system? If this is a turbo, which it does not sound like what you have (B230f), in '91 may be either... Which determines the number, 1 or 2 fuel pumps you have.

So, the Bosch would have a round, traditional looking coil bolted on the passenger side, the Regina will have a coil on the driver's side, and it does not look like a coil--just follow the wire from the distributor to the coil... Haynes manual covers the drivetrain adequately, but I doubt that 240 ever had Reginas, so if that's the case, then the Haynes is a little inadequate...

1-1-1 is good, but the engine is not running so, no time to set off codes...

To see if it's a gas problem, I'd squirt some quick start ether in the intake, and if it fires momentarily, gas is your first issue...

 

OK. it's a non turbo model. I drained the tank and the gas was brown and smelled like turpentine. The fuel pump & filter were both beneath drivers side of vehicle below & between front seat & back seat area. Pulled the injectors sprayed them with brake clean, left them to sit in some clean gas. put it all back together but did not connect the gas line to the fuel rail. turned the key to the on position a couple of times to get the fuel all the way up into the injectors but it wouldn't start again. pulled apart the connection at the throttle body, sprayed in some starting fluid an it fired up right away. So, that's good news. I got spark , timing etc, I can't afford to buy new injectors & I think I remember seeing on one of these sites that you can actually disassemble them, clean them and rebuild them... is that advisable? I guess I should pull the injectors out while leaving them connected to the rail and see if they all spray properly but I think they are still clogged. when I pulled the plugs i could tell that they were not getting wet with any fuel. If I can find a link in this forum to clean the injectors that would be ideal. otherwise it will have to be a few weeks before I can buy new injectors. my local pik n pull did not have any volvo injectors left. Perhaps there is a better way to soak them....?

 

I would think that it's the fuel pump first. You can open the injectors and blow through them. You need a 12 volt power source and leads. Have someone hold the injector and the leads on to open it and spray it with brake parts cleaner through the injector. Then repeat with air. You should see it blast out the other side. Be careful when connecting the wires, they spark! Also you can tell if they are opening or not. With all the injectors not delivering fuel, it's either no fuel pressure or not electrical signals.

 

I agree with Titan Joe. Start at the tank end of things. Things that might need replacement to get fuel flowing again include:

1) Fuel sock at the bottom of the in-tank pump. This may have gotten clogged up with the brown stuff in the tank. If it is clogged, you won't get any fuel flowing to the other pumps

2) Make sure the in-tank pump is pumping

3) The main fuel filter. I have read of people that resurrected cars after setting for a few years having to replace this filter multiple times as it will keep getting clogged with the gunk from the tank.

4) After the above, check the operation of the main fuel pump.

5) Check the fuel delivery to the fuel rail. Disconnect the fuel line from the rail and run the main pump momentarily. Us a can or something to catch the gas in.

Good luck

 

i'm sorry but I forgot to mention that I'm getting fuel to the rail fine. When I disconnect the fuel pressure regulator the fuel sprays out with force once I turn the engine over. Likewise, I left the rail inplace and did not connect the fuel line to it and was able to turn the key and fill a jar full of gas. I did this half a dozen times to get whatever bad gas was left over in the lines. I tried for about 30-45 mins. to disconnect the fuel filter but was unable to loosen the screws, sprayed it down last night in hopes of loosening up the rust, dirt and grime. Will try again this morning. So, I know that i'm getting fuel pumped to where it needs to be but that's it.

I did try spraying brake clean in the injectors then blowing compressed air through but nothing came out the other end. I guess that means still clogged. I hate to buy new ones..........is it possible to disassemble them? clean them & rebuild them?

Thanks again for the input. I hope to have this one running by the weekend.

 

ok. i just pulled the fuel rail off while leaving it all connected. turned the key over an zero fuel sprayed out of the injectors. like i mentioned in my previous post i'm able to get fuel to come out of the fuel pressure regulator so the blockage must be in the injectors. Will try to disassemble them an or clean them. last option then is to purchase new ones. I will try my local junk yard as well as pic n pull too. I will post back with the news. thanks again for all of your input. I'm sure I'll be back again.

 

just realized that i've been looking at the tailgate to this 91 740 Wagon, & it's been replaced from a different Volvo. How can I confirm it's a 740? GL? I assume there is a way to read the VIN inquire the model. I guess that doesn't really matter at this stage. injectors are soaking again. Will post back with any results.

 

Run a Vin check at www.AutoCheck.com or on Volvo's site: Volvo Owners' Manuals | Owners' Manuals | Your Volvo | Top Navigation | www.volvocars.com/us

 

Have you checked to see if you are getting electrical pulses to the injectors while cranking the engine? Use a noid light or scope to check this. The ECU will not signal the injectors to fire if it does not have a signal from the the crank position sensor. Without the signal, the injectors will not fire.

I'm not as familiar with the 740s as I am with the 240s. Some earlier 740s had a hall effect sensor on the distributor rather than a crank position sensor. Not sure which your model has. Others on the forum might be able to help you identify this.

Good luck

 

I'm thinking that my injectors are not getting the signal. I'm going to buy a new Crank position sensor today to see if that works. I don't have a multi meter but a friend of mine is bringing one over tonight after work. I had a hard time trying to locate the crank sensor. Is it buried? I looked under the coil, under where the plugs are connected but can't locate it. I guess once I get the new part, I will look to find the matching one. I will post back later today with the results.

thanks again everyone,

jason

 

If your car has a crank position sensor, it is located at the top of the transmission bell housing. It has a black wire that runs up to a connector on the firewall. Do a search for crank position sensor here on the forum. You might be able to run across a picture of it.

Sorry I can't help you more, but I am much more familiar with the 240 which had a CPS starting in '89.

Good luck