1991 Volvo 240 Base Model B230F "Red" Engine

Hi guys. Another day fighting with the Brick in my driveway. So it all began.....with the Alternator Belt Squeaking. Replaced alternator bushings & Belt, doing so I ripped out oil pressure sender wire. Spliced wire and reconnected it. No Start. No diagnostic signal in OBD Position 2 AT ALL (but port 6 working well- Pulled up temp sending unit code but I knew that from non working guage...on the list) I replaced ECM Brain Box / The Black Box near it and the fuel pump relay all with the same Numbers off a junkyard car. Yea! it starts & runs again! Go to turn it of and....wait for it....ready....IT WON'T TURN OFF NOW!!! Just keeps running like a champ with no key in the ignition AT ALL. So before I send a Molotov Cocktail through the drivers window, figured I would plead for advice...again. Thanks in advance...again.

 

the coolant temperature sensor that the ECU and ICU use is a different one than the dashboard gauge uses, they aren't connected.

not shutting off likely means your ignition switch is messed up, although I suppose it could mean a stuck main fuel injection relay (but the ignition isn't on that circuit, which brings me back to the ignition switch).

 

Okay guys, sorry for the hiatus but got to work on the Volvo (1991 240 B230 Automatic Base Model) today. I reattached the ground (blue wire) and it is now going from the stud on the alternator case to the bolt (engine block/ground/alternator bracket/bolt). In addition, added a second ground wire from the same stud to a bolt I put into one of the holes on the bottom half of the block (saw where guy didn't always trust his OE wire and added a backup ground in case this way).

So I try to start her up and she fires up pretty good (much better than before). Unfortunately shutting her off is still an issue- so since I 1) fixed the grounding wire issue and 2) replaced the ECM? "Silver Brainbox", I was tempted to think ignition switch. I noticed though that when I take the key out, it still runs even with fuse #6 fuel injection removed?!! Put the key back in to "on" position but then tried removing fuse first (while car running w/ key in "on" position) and then second turning key to off position and it shuts the car off as it should?? Kind of rules out the ignition switch (I think).

My thoughts now are along the lines of

A) maybe not having the alternator grounded porperly before burnt out something (alternator diodes / some relay / other) and is now a resulting issue causing the backfeed?

B) In this process I replaced the In tank pump (as it hasn't worked since purchase) and maybe it hasn't worked for a reason? Now I've replaced it & working it is causing a no shut off until pump fuse pulled, then key turned?

C) The silver "Brainbox" was damaged as a result of the grounding issue (Both #2 and #6 show codes properly though now I've changed it) also what about the smaller black box located towards the firewall near the Brainbox (what are the proper names for this and the silver one for future reference and what does each control?)

Oh and what was on the car when I bought it running good was a ###-###-561 Brainbox. It blew with the grounding issue I think. Pulled a working 561 (in there now) and also just found a 951 that I have in reserve.

Also pulled both "Black boxes" and fuel relays with each as well but have not replaced these yet. Also pulled an ignition switch Just in case.

Sorry for the novel but never can have enough info right? Thanks so much for your help and patience with a newbie but I am so close I can feel it....