PCV hose size, 91 940
Turbo wagon, US spec. Stock "PCV" (I know it's not literally) hose from intake tube to intake manifold is dry and needs replacement. 5/8" is a little loose, but what I have laying around. Want emissions rated stuff as it doesn't turn to goo quickly like heater hose. OE Volvo part number has a 14 in it, does this mean 14mm? Where are people buying this stuff?
The "Y" in said hose, found inside/under/ the intake manifold with two 14mm (5/8?) nipples and one very small nipple was full of sludge. Tried poking mechanics wire through the small nipple, it didn't go through. Problem? I understand turbos don't have "flame traps."
off topic: search for vacuum leaks lead me to find one on a tee on the firewall sort of by the vacuum booster, with a 7/16 ish goes-into, and a 7/16 goes-outa that narrows to a skinny thing that I assume goes to the HVAC. The third part of the tee had a cap that was leaking. I do not have cruise control and imagine this third branch would go to that. There was plenty of hose to eliminate the Tee altogether.
Continued off topic: This whole mess started with an uneven idle and stalling when letting off the gas and stopping while in drive. A search for vacuum problems commenced. The MAF and programming are too dumb (IMO) to recognize airflow lower than low hot idle and trip a related code and/or fail safe. It will happily idle slower and slower until it stalls with a vacuum leak. Unplugging the MAF (engine off, naturally) results in a nice steady 1000 RPM idle as it then ignores its reading and injects an appropriate amount of fuel. This does not (necessarily) condemn the MAF! Anyone assuming the o2 sensor (or anything else) will have something to say is barking up a wrong tree, again, (IMO) the MAF reading rules all on this system. (incidentally I have the two fuel pump system-- whatever that is.)
Back on topic, does NAPA/ carquest/ autozone/ advanced have the hose I need?
The "Y" in said hose, found inside/under/ the intake manifold with two 14mm (5/8?) nipples and one very small nipple was full of sludge. Tried poking mechanics wire through the small nipple, it didn't go through. Problem? I understand turbos don't have "flame traps."
off topic: search for vacuum leaks lead me to find one on a tee on the firewall sort of by the vacuum booster, with a 7/16 ish goes-into, and a 7/16 goes-outa that narrows to a skinny thing that I assume goes to the HVAC. The third part of the tee had a cap that was leaking. I do not have cruise control and imagine this third branch would go to that. There was plenty of hose to eliminate the Tee altogether.
Continued off topic: This whole mess started with an uneven idle and stalling when letting off the gas and stopping while in drive. A search for vacuum problems commenced. The MAF and programming are too dumb (IMO) to recognize airflow lower than low hot idle and trip a related code and/or fail safe. It will happily idle slower and slower until it stalls with a vacuum leak. Unplugging the MAF (engine off, naturally) results in a nice steady 1000 RPM idle as it then ignores its reading and injects an appropriate amount of fuel. This does not (necessarily) condemn the MAF! Anyone assuming the o2 sensor (or anything else) will have something to say is barking up a wrong tree, again, (IMO) the MAF reading rules all on this system. (incidentally I have the two fuel pump system-- whatever that is.)
Back on topic, does NAPA/ carquest/ autozone/ advanced have the hose I need?
14mm is more like 9/16ths, which is a bit smaller than 5/8ths
any auto parts store that specialized in european imports (VW, Volvo, BMW, etc) should have the right metric hose.
any auto parts store that specialized in european imports (VW, Volvo, BMW, etc) should have the right metric hose.
The "Y-shaped" piece of plastic pipe I believe is notorious for becoming clogged, as are drivers for neglecting to keep them cleaned up.
I always called it "flame trap", but I guess I was wrong. My 84 volvo 240 wagon had a flame trap. I guess this is just a "PCV" valve type of thing.
Regardless, they become clogged and they should definitely be cleaned periodically. What I had to do to remove all the clogs of gunk was absolutely remarkable.
I tried compressed air, water, spray cleaner, small needle-like pin all to no avail. The tiny port or whatever you call it on the valve was of course the biggest pain. You could just tell in the light how completely clogged it was.
Only when I boiled the valve in water and picked at it with a "bobby pin" did it break the crust causing the clog.
The boiling water was so necessary to soften the crust and crud...
I always called it "flame trap", but I guess I was wrong. My 84 volvo 240 wagon had a flame trap. I guess this is just a "PCV" valve type of thing.
Regardless, they become clogged and they should definitely be cleaned periodically. What I had to do to remove all the clogs of gunk was absolutely remarkable.
I tried compressed air, water, spray cleaner, small needle-like pin all to no avail. The tiny port or whatever you call it on the valve was of course the biggest pain. You could just tell in the light how completely clogged it was.
Only when I boiled the valve in water and picked at it with a "bobby pin" did it break the crust causing the clog.
The boiling water was so necessary to soften the crust and crud...
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