223-Signal missing to/from idle valve Iac Idle Air Control Valve

321-Signal missing to/from cold start valve

132-Battery voltage too high/low

Could 132- be a weak coil because i have lost a lot of power or could it be the Iac valve also??

Thanks,
Scott

 

My idle is a little erratic when the engine is cold so i'm sure the Iac valve is a good place to start. But code 132 get's me thinking i could have a weak coil that would explain the loss of power maybe.

 

After noting the codes, have you reset the OBD? Often times, the codes have accumulated over a decent amount of time and aren't even relevant. I always write them down, delete them and then see what comes back. The OBD can only store 3 codes at a time so you may very well get totally different codes, no codes or the same codes the second go around. Resetting allows you to chase current issues rather than issues from some time ago.

 

Swiftjustice, how do you reset the codes? Disconnect the battery?

 

I reset it & got just 1 code. It's code 321 which is.....Signal missing to/from cold start valve. It's the IAC valve right? Can i clean it & see if it works better? They are expensive!!

Thanks,
Scott

 

Well, that will definitely reset the OBD...but it will also begin the learning process for the ecu; not always a good thing. I believe the manual say 5 seconds, I like to go 10 seconds for time...but here goes. After collecting the codes, hold the button down continuously for 5-10 seconds. When released, the led should glow constantly. If not, repeat. If it does glow solid, hold the button down an equal amount of time and when released, the led should go out. Assuming it does, go through the motions to check codes...should be only one...1-1-1 indicating no codes present.

 

It's the Radio Suppresion relay. It's the Regina system & there are two of them. Do i need to order two new ones? I unplugged one & it wouldn't start.

 

The cold start valve is the fuel injector unter the intake...might be unplugged or it may have had the Volvo recommended TSB done and disconnected from the ecu and powered from the starter. Where are you getting that it's the rs relay? There are two relays but only one is fi related, the other is the aux fan relay. You can interchange them to test but you can't leave the rs relay unplugged

 

That's what the code said...321 unless i read it wrong! lol

 

3-2-1 is cold start valve signal missing. Volvo had trouble with hot starts and issued a Tech Service Bulletin (TSB) to rewire the cold start injector/valve so that it was powered by the starter motor rather than the ecu. When it has been done, it's quite possible this code would continue to present. Ceck the connector to the injector and if it's connected, start following the wiring and see if one branches off down to the starter solenoid. If so, that's a non-factory configuration and would indicate the csv has been taken out of the loop to the ecu.

The first place to start on erratic idle is to clean the heck out of the throttle body. So much oily air passes through from the flame trap that the throttle blade get enough build up that it won't close all the way. If it doesn't close, the throttle position sensor won't tell the ecu to engage the iac.

 

I have cleaned the TB Could it be the timing? The reason i ask is because my brother put a new timing belt & water pump in & right after that it seemed to have lost it's power.

 

swiftjustice: Don't mean to hijack the thread , but I always hear people say that disconnecting the battery shortens the life of the ecu, is this true? Or does it just mess up the memory and have to learn your diving style again. I mean yeah, constantly supplying and removing power to the ecu or anything electrical really is bad, but in the long run?

 

Aha...the plot thickens! And now...the rest of the story.....Yes, people replacing the timing belt on redblocks for the first time often muff the T belt. It has to lined up with the crankshaft, cam shaft AND jack shaft a/k/a intermediate shaft.

BurnS...I really do not see how disconnecting the battery would be any different than removing the fuse which is the recommended method. Any time mods are done on the engine...bigger injectors, higher bar fuel pressure regulator, different cam, re-chipping the ecu and icu...one always resets the computers by killing power...I've always removed the cable and called it good...never any ill effects.

Point of fact, it's not a bad idea to force the computer to relearn after replacement of any of the sensors. Rather than trying to incorporate a new sensors signals into the skewed learned around behavior, the ecu goes back to factory and begins learning anew. Similar to rebooting Windows 98 regularly!!

 

Could it be the timing? My brother replaced the timing belt & water pump & right after that it had no power.
He went over & over the timing again & said it was right. Well i guess he could be wrong!!....lol

 

the 'radio suppression relay' is really the 'fuel injector power relay'. They added this relay when they moved the main fuel injection/fuel pump relay from over by the glovebox (on a 240) to the central relay panel (on a 740) and it caused radio static from the injector power... so they added a remote relay under the hood to supply the injector power, and keep the electrical noise away from the radio.

The Regina EFI on the 92 740/940 schematics I'm looking at only has the one 'radio interference suppression relay', shown as somewhere behind the right headlight. The only other relay in the injection is the main fuel injection/pump dual relay thats in hte relay panel behind the ashtray... The Regina REX ignition doesn't have any relays in it at all. So, I dunno what the 2nd relay is that you're looking at.

well, if it had good power before, and he changed the timing belt and the power was way down, yeah, its a pretty good bet he got the timing belt off by a tooth. the bentley or the hayes book or most any other should show how to set that up correctly.

 

Hello,
We have one of the only Volvos in NA that has not had the cold start injector rewired to the starter motor according to the Volvo service bulletin of 1991.
We are now getting the 321 code, which is a faulty cold start injector. We put in a working used one (impossible to find a replacement cold start injector), but we still get the code 321. Shouldn't it clear?
(I know it won't clear if our car has been rewired, but this is not the case. We still have the original wiring)

Our next step is to rewire, but can not find any instructions how to do this properly. Any help would be appreciated. Anyone else have this problem? Our symptoms are hard to start on cold days. Engine turns on, but then starts to die. After it warms up, the car runs great.

 

afaik, our 1987 240 was never rewired, we bought it new.

the CS injector is controlled by the ECU. ours is a Bosch LH 2.2 car, I've never seen a Regina volvo here in California.