Removing 940 non turbo exhaust manifold
#1
Removing 940 non turbo exhaust manifold
Ok. So I could not get the water pump not to leak in the top hat gasket area. Decided to throw in the towel and take it to the garage to let them do it. Turns out that the leak is from the head gasket according to the garage smoke test. It must be right in the same area as the top hat because it is almost impossible to distinguish that the leak is from the gasket and not the top hat. Garage wanted 1300 minimum to replace head gasket....generally that means about 1600-1700 by time all is said and done. Decided that was too much and had the car towed home so I could do it myself when I had the time. Well, the weather in the NE has been phenomenally warm so thought I would jump into the job. I almost have the exhaust manifold off but there is a small copper pipe connected to the rear of the manifold and what looks like two nuts. Not sure which I should turn to remove the pipe. Any suggestions?
#5
I suspected that: the '94 and '95 have the "pulse air" and that's what that pipe is a part of.
Just undo the nut(s), whatever it takes to get the manifold off. I know, these types of exhaust nuts are a pain, may strip, so use a pipe wrench or at least a good six point. Also, may be soak it in PB Blaster or similar for a day to make sure it comes off cleanly.
Did you get all of the nuts off the manifold without breaking any studs?
Just undo the nut(s), whatever it takes to get the manifold off. I know, these types of exhaust nuts are a pain, may strip, so use a pipe wrench or at least a good six point. Also, may be soak it in PB Blaster or similar for a day to make sure it comes off cleanly.
Did you get all of the nuts off the manifold without breaking any studs?
#6
#7
940 cylinder head
[QUOTE=lev;423967
Did you get all of the nuts off the manifold without breaking any studs?[/QUOTE]
I managed to get the head off without disconnecting the copper tube. Now that I have the head out I may try to disconnect the copper tube as it should be easier to get to. The only reason is to remove the manifold at this point is to remove one or two of the broken studs that hold the heat shield. Also, along these lines one of the studs in the head also broke so I will have to get that out.
A couple of points for others who attempt this job. One, for the intake manifold, no where in all my searching was there any mention of two electrical connections and one hose connected below the intake ports but still on the manifold...i.e., they have to come off.
There is a metal strap underneath the intake manifold...this can be loosened towards the top of the intake manifold to make it somewhat easier to pull the intake manifold off the head.
As noted above there is no mention of the small copper tube at the back of the exhaust manifold. The tube appears to wrap around the head to a sensor underneath the intake manifold. Was able to wiggle head off without disconnecting small copper tube.
Now that I have the head off it does appear that the head gasket is broken in the corner area near the water pump top hat gasket so that is probably my problem...but I did note that as I was loosening the head bolts the one in that corner was already loose...not sure why...maybe the garage did it when they smoked tested the system.
Now that I have the head off are there any suggestions as to cleaning valves, or other areas? I bought a gasket kit so will replace all gaskets.
Did you get all of the nuts off the manifold without breaking any studs?[/QUOTE]
I managed to get the head off without disconnecting the copper tube. Now that I have the head out I may try to disconnect the copper tube as it should be easier to get to. The only reason is to remove the manifold at this point is to remove one or two of the broken studs that hold the heat shield. Also, along these lines one of the studs in the head also broke so I will have to get that out.
A couple of points for others who attempt this job. One, for the intake manifold, no where in all my searching was there any mention of two electrical connections and one hose connected below the intake ports but still on the manifold...i.e., they have to come off.
There is a metal strap underneath the intake manifold...this can be loosened towards the top of the intake manifold to make it somewhat easier to pull the intake manifold off the head.
As noted above there is no mention of the small copper tube at the back of the exhaust manifold. The tube appears to wrap around the head to a sensor underneath the intake manifold. Was able to wiggle head off without disconnecting small copper tube.
Now that I have the head off it does appear that the head gasket is broken in the corner area near the water pump top hat gasket so that is probably my problem...but I did note that as I was loosening the head bolts the one in that corner was already loose...not sure why...maybe the garage did it when they smoked tested the system.
Now that I have the head off are there any suggestions as to cleaning valves, or other areas? I bought a gasket kit so will replace all gaskets.
#8
#9
If you decide to take the head to a machine shop they can remove the broken studs.
Strange to have a loose head bolt--usually they are all pretty tight! I doubt the shop did it--no reason to do that.
You don't have to use a machine shop unless the surface or valves look pretty bad or you suspect or know of overheating--even with one broken stud the ex. manifold should be alright. I have gotten away with two broken studs...
Strange to have a loose head bolt--usually they are all pretty tight! I doubt the shop did it--no reason to do that.
You don't have to use a machine shop unless the surface or valves look pretty bad or you suspect or know of overheating--even with one broken stud the ex. manifold should be alright. I have gotten away with two broken studs...
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