I have a 1993 240 with a manual transmission, and I have a very hard time getting it into first gear when at a dead stop. If I'm coasting to a stop, it goes into first gear fine. Sometimes I have to put it in second gear and then I can shift from second to first pretty easily (but still not as easy as it should be). I tried lubricating the linkage and changing the transmission oil.

Anyone have any other ideas?

Thanks,

Eric

 

hows the clutch? if the clutch is fine, odds are the 1st gear synchro is tired.

you might try putting it in neutral, letting out the clutch, putting in the clutch then putting it into 1st, when you're at that stop, that spins the input shaft and makes it easier for the synchros to engage.

 

Yes, the clutch is fine. I think I've tried this double-clutching method, and it has helped, but I'll try it again to be sure.

Should I assume this problem will get worse? Is there anything preventative I can do to to help? If I have to fix/replace the first-gear syncro, is that really hard?

Also, I forgot to mention, there is a grinding/clunking sound when I put it in reverse. Is that a syncro issue too?

Thanks,

Eric

 

How sure are you that the clutch is FINE? Hard reverse is another sign of a worn clutch.
Most likely it is not fine, and this what you need to get into gear easier; and yes, it will get worse.

 

Oh, good to know.

Is there a way to test the clutch? I never feel it slip. Are there other warning signs I should look out for?

Thanks,

Eric

 

Difficult to engage 1st gear possible causes:

1. Worn 1st gear syncro. Identify by depressing clutch, and enter 4th gear momentarily before 1st. If it enters 1st no problem after momentary 4th gear engagement, that points to weak 1st gear syncro. Also proved by depressing clutch and waiting several seconds for tranny internals to spin down before entering 1st gear. If 1st engages easily after waiting with clutch depressed, bad syncro.

2. Bad trans input shaft pilot bearing. Hard to engage 1st and reverse. Should not get any better by trying experiments in #1 above.

3. Bad clutch/ clutch not disengaging completely. Would be hard to enter any gear from a stop. Possible grinding when changing gears while underway. Clutch should engage/disengage at roughly halfway point of full pedal travel.

Curious to see what your results are.

 

Thanks. I will try these experiments tomorrow.

Eric

 

I tried your experiments, tintintin, and both the double clutching and the putting it in fourth gear before first gear helped (though the fourth-gear experiment worked better than double-clutching). It sounds like it's the syncros.

Is this something people fix, or do you just live with it until the transmission eventually dies?

Thanks,

Eric

 

Not double-clutching, but just hold in the clutch for 5-6 seconds before you shift into 1st.

Anyway, if that's all it is, worn 1st gear syncro, then might not be worth it to R/R the trans, open it up to install new 1st gear syncro parts. Now you know how to workaround it-- just momentarily touch 4th (or even 2nd) before putting it in 1st. It will eventually become habit.

 

if you have to take it to a shop, just pulling and reinstalling the transmission is like 8 or 10 hours labor, around here, thats $800-1000. then whatever it costs to actually repair the transmission (probably close to another 8-10 hours).

 

I have been doing the workaround, hitting fourth before 1st, and it has become habit now. I'm happy to live with it as it is, and I'm glad it's not a serious problem.

Thanks for your help,

Eric Z.

 

Glad you are managing it. But: What kind of fluid did you use for your changeover? Some have reported better syncro function with synthetic ATF, ex: ATI SYNTHETIC TYPE F RACING ATF, Redline Racing ATF (Type F). Is it worth the extra cost? Hard to say, but it is an option.

 

last manual I had, a vw jetta 5 speed, I put redline synth atf in it and it shifted great.

 

I was having a similar problem, grinding when going into reverse, and hard to shift into 1st when stopped. The pedal also felt loose.


On my '85 (M46 4 speed with electronic overdrive) there is a simple adjustment mechanism on the cable, I don't know if it is the same on the '93 (assume you have the M47 5 speed).


Took me about 5 minutes to make the adjustment, and everything is fine now.


In my case the clutch wasn't being fully disengaged when I stepped on the pedal because there was too much slack in the cable.