it didnt run when it was unplugged. turned on, then turned right off. then I replugged it back in, it turned on. Still cant read codes, If I had an OBD1 tool can I get codes off the car that way?

 

What happens when you try to read them?

 

the same thing happens, i plug in the connecter and then it doesnt flash. I hold down the button, press the button same thing.

 

Does the button light at all when you press it?

 

the button does light up.

 

But it doesn't even flash 1-1-1?

 

doesnt flash 1-1-1. It will flash when I press the button thats it

 

I forget have you tried unplugging the computer yet?
Sorry to lazy to read back through all the posts.

 

no i havent yet. it has been too cold over in here the past few days, I also dont have a torx screwdriver

 

Oh ok that might fix the code problem but might not as well.

 

do I have to remove the battery cable first?

 

well just got back from the car, and I got the DLC to work!. I put it into port 2, held it down for one and one half second. And it flashed this: 1-1-3. or 1-1-111. So I read the code and it said that 1-1-3= Fuel Injectors. So my new question is, when I put in new injectors will that fix my problem and earse the cel? Also thats the only code that flashed. I also put the connector into port 6 and it just read 1-1-1. But I cannot get it read for port5 Turbo port.

 

I'm not sure if new fuel injectors would help you or not. The 113 code is too lean or rich short term fuel settings of which are controlled by the O2 sensor. You say it did run fine for a week right? If that's the case then I would rule out the injectors. Have you checked your intake hose REALLY well? I honestly think that you have a tear or rip in your intake duct that is only exposing itself under boosted conditions. When you replaced the intercooler I'm also guessing you temporarily fixed the leak you had but now it's back. I may be way off base here but that's what I bet you're encountering of which would certainly cause a 113 code over time as well as a 231 code. Let us know.

Dale

 

In my book it says 1-1-3= injectors, would the computer lie? There was no other codes present just that one. Its funny, whenever I put anything new to the car, the car was fine for about a week or so. Put in new intercooler, car ran fine for a week. Same thing with in take fuel pump car ran great, but the cel was there never checked. I always thought it was cause of the speedometer. But that code didn't flash either. I forgot to say 1-1-3 happened in mode 1. in mode2 and mode3 all that happened was lots of flashes without any pauses. I won't put on new injectors since it cost too much, I will find some good used ones and clean them. Also last week or so the car was bad dying out and all. I put in some gas it was over half a tank, turned on the car and it drove just fine for hours.

 

The information I was using was from ALLDATA as to the 113 code. Perhaps tech will have more insight as to this code and what it typically means. I can see where injectors could cause a 113 code, but I don't see them healing themselves for a week or so then not working. I guess it's possible but seems kind of unlikely in my mind.

 

the car does start fine, the problem started when the cold weather hit. But on some days the weather was 45 degrees and the car drove fine. Maybe one of the injectors is no good?

 

Do you have any black smoke coming from the tailpipe or any signs that the car is running rich? I ask because that code can indicate a rich or lean. I would guess by it wanting to stall out when you hit the gas that it's probably running lean. Just curious.. And I've got a feeling that if your intake connections are all tight that the culprit is going to be a bad MAF sensor. Just a gut feeling for now.

 

Code 113 for your car should be Short term fuel trim upper limit.

If your car had Motronic 1.8 then it would be injector faulty signal.

Your car should have either Lh 3.2 or Regina system.

 

So code 1-1-3 doesn't mean injectors? I don't know what type of fuel system I have on the car. So are you guys saying if I buy used injectors the problem will not go away? And the cel doesn't say maf sensor.

 

Tech suggested a thorough examination of the intake hose, looking for a leak that might cause a lean condition and that 1 1 3 code (which faulty fuel injectors would also cause). He also said that a week of good running fairly rules out the injectors themselves. Injectors are mechanical devices that generally don't intermit. Their failure mode is slow. A gradual detioration of performance - - not what you described. Check for that leak. You can spray carburetor cleaner around the intake area also - - not the inlet but rather the places where air should NOT go in. Joints, accordian pleats, intake manifold gasket (where the intake meets the engine and where the air metering equipment meets the intake manifold). Engine will speed up if you spray the cleaner into a leaking area. This could be a simple and cheap fix. Always check those before going to the expensive solutions.