Hi there, more issues with my newly purchased Volvo '93 240 wagon. While attempting to start my car, because I have cold starting issues that require some throttle to get it started... the SRS light came on and will not go away! Is this somehow related to my issues with starting or just a bad coincidence? I have disconnected the batt for 10 mins and re-started and the light did not go away. So my other question is, how do I get this light to turn off? Will it go out on it's own if there are no more issues or will I have to pay the stealership to reset the light? Trust me, I like this car but wow what a lot of issues right off the bat! I REALLY hope that once I get all these issues ironed out that I don't have to do anything beyond general maintence for awhile. Thanks for the help!
Scott

 

Does anyone have any input on this? Please?!
Scott

 

The SRS light means there is a problem with the Air bags.
I will have to look on Monday on how to reset.

 

Well, the SRS light still has not gone out but the check engine light DID come on. So I changed out the fuel pump and added exhaust WITHOUT all the holes <wow this car is quiet with the proper mufflers> and when I was starting it up for the first time I got a 1-1-3 "Fuel injectors" code. Do you think this was thrown from the fuel pump having been removed and replaced. What type of siginal does the computer get to throw a 1-1-3 Fuel injector code? I reset the code the day it showed up and it has not been back in 25+ miles. It still runs great once it starts, but I have to give it throttle to fire up. Once it's been running for 30 seconds, it's fine. Turn it off and then back on and it starts and idles perfectly. Let it sit for 10 mins and then it requires throttle to fire up. The fuel pump has a new check valve and all 4 injectors sound like they are working. I sometimes notice a heavy lope, hunting idle or surge in rpm when braking up to a stop light with my foot off the gas. Some ignition parts, including spark plugs, cap, rotor etc were recently replaced. Timing belt was just changed. It became hard to start all of a sudden, almost right after spraying out the throttle body and cleaning the flame trap. I am pretty good at diagnosing problems, but this car has me stumped. Parts are too expensive to just throw parts at it. I think maybe the fuel regulator. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated! Scott

 

Did you clean the idle motor as well?

If the Fuel pressure regulator is bad the Vaccum line will have Gas in it.

 

Nope I have not cleaned out the idle motor, this is next on the list. I don't think that there is gas in the vaccuum line to the regulator... thanks for pointing out that as a potential indicator I would have never thought of that! Strangely enough the car is getting better on it's own, and it's not SO hard to start and sometimes I can start it with no throttle help. I hate when cars do this...
As for the SRS light, most of my research has led me to believe that I have to have the stealership turn off the light. I hope that's not the case but it's money well invested to find out what the issue is. Thanks!
Scott

 

If you have a cover by the switches in the dash that Says SRS you attach a wire to it and ground the wire like pulling codes for the ECM to read codes from the SRS light in the dash.
You would clear them the same way as well.

 

I just got this post on the Brickboard about the issue, I hope that someone else can benifit from this post:
A common problem is corrosion of the contacts on the yellow or orange power connector for the crash sensor under the carpet on the transmission tunnel. If the procedure to reset the fault codes doesn't work, make sure the contacts are clean and then try to clear the codes again. If the SRS light comes back on, the problem is probably another component or even low battery voltage. Faults must be cleared for the light to go out. Use an 18 - 22 gauge solid wire with 1/4 to 1/2 inch of insulation stripped from the ends.

Remove the small cover that says SRS on it next to the cigarette lighter and remove the lighter ****. Insert the end of the jumper you made into the cross opening so it is gripped by the clip inside. Arrange the wire so you can touch the other end of it to the grounded metal ring of the
cigarette lighter.
Turn the ignition on so the dash warning lights are on and wait 15 seconds.
Ground the test terminal for 2 full seconds. The SRS light will flash immediately when the connection is first broken. This is not a fault code. The light will then flash one to ten times for the code. The light will then come back on.
Without turning the key off, clear the fault codes.
Ground the test terminal 3 times for at least 0.25 seconds each time all within a period of 1.5 to 5 seconds. It will probably take several tries to get the rhythm.
The lamp will go out for 4 seconds, re-light for 3 seconds, and then go out. If the light does not stay out, then there is still a fault present and you will need to go further in to it.

Thanks and enjoy the cruise!
Scott

 

Thanks Man I was about to give up on my 90 240 DL. I tried what you listed above.. I never got a code.. The after two hours aof trying I never got a code nor did i get the light to go out. Is it the crash sensor? Whats the next step?

Mank Thanks

 

It might be a bad crash sensor.

 

Thanks Man.

Any Idea what a fair price might be at a salvage yard?

 

Sorry never priced one out.