Ok, while under my 740 today, I noticed that there is a leak at the tailshaft seal, where the yoke goes in. Upon inspection, I found that the actual yoke seems "loose" and can easily move up and down as well as slightly in and out. Is this a loose yoke nut, or something worse? I know the seal needs replaced, but what about the looseness of the yoke? Is this some type of bushing or something, or is it just loose?

Hopefully someone can help me on this, I'd like to tackle it while I'm under there doing the bushings.

Oh, and this is the AW72L transmission.

 

Unless you can actually see the nut holding the yoke to the output shaft and verify that it's loose, you might as well assume the bushing is shot. You'll have to take the driveshaft out either way. Don't just replace the seal... the yoke bouncing up and down will destroy it in no time.

To replace the bushing, you have to remove the driveshaft, output yoke, tailshaft housing (support trans and remove crossmember and trans mount first), mop up the trans fluid that just spilled everywhere, move to the bench, drive out the old bushing (with the proper tool or a perfectly sized socket), drive in the new one (with... see above), install new yoke seal, new housing to trans gasket, housing, bolts, mount, crossmember, yoke, driveshaft, fluid.

There's also writeups with pictures in various Volvo FAQs.
Here's one now..... ---> Transmission. Automatic AW70 and ZF

 

Yup, that's it!

Getting ready to order the repair kit, transmission mount, and trans filter kit from FCP Groton. They are gods.

 

Oh, and will any regular ATF work, or is it a special kind?

 

The current flavor of Mercon works fine.

 

Update on this. Got my parts yesterday and started today. Turns out that the tailshaft bolt was COMPLETELY loosened from the splined shaft and the bolt fell out when I dropped the driveshaft. I DID find that the bushing was worn, but not too serious, but I am replacing it anyways.

One question though....how far do I press the bushing into the housing? I know that I have to put the hole in the bushing towards the top, but I am unsure of how far to press the bushing in. I am assuming just past the lip where the tailshaft seal sits? Or should I align it with the edge on the inside of the housing?

Oh, and the fluid is a little on the dark side, but doesn't smell burnt... just old.

 

Is it too late to say "measure the depth of the old one before you take it out"? It's been a while, and I can't remember exactly, but I think I went with "the edge on the inside of the housing".

 

That's how far I pressed it in. It was replaced before, but was worn down because of the tailshaft's bolt coming loose. Don't worry... it won't come loose this time. I used blue threadlocker and tightened it down SUPER tight. It's all back together... all I have left today is to do the fluid and filter. Anyone recommend flushing the fluid, or should I just do a pan drop?

Oh... and I got 2 transmission filter gaskets in my set from FCP. Use both or did I just happen to get 2 of them?

 

You'll use both of them! I changed my filter out not too long ago, and ended up having to buy an extra filter gasket because the kit I got from auto zone only had one. I had to buy an entire kit from pepboys because they didn't have the gasket separate.

FCP is the way to go, glad they know the car better than autozone/pepboys.

 

Update.... all done. New tailshaft bushing and seal, mount, shifter bushings, new filter and fluid. Fluid flushed till it ran nice and pink.

However... it still acts the same. Lurches forward in park when revved, no reverse... neutral acts as a forward gear and D, 2 and 1 are forward gears.

So what do you guys think? Transmission shot? With the amount of crap in the bottom of the pan, I am assuming so. Bottom of pan had a thin layer of sediment on the bottom, all fine stuff. I know it's normal to have a SMALL amount, but probably not what I had.

Saying that... anyone recommend a certain rebuild kit? I am not taking it to a shop, nor am I giving up on the car. I know I can rebuild the transmission... I rebuilt a Buick 2-Speed with a kit and a overhaul manual.

 

Something's not releasing, clutches or valve body parts. Usually we'd send it over to AJ's for a rebuild, but Google says you're 2500 miles away.

 

Yeah, I'm certain something is wrong internally. Took it out this morning with the following results.

Revved slightly in Park, it lurches forward and either stalls or "goes in park", but acts like it's in drive.

Still no reverse.

Driving in drive, it won't shift when driving normally unless you let off the throttle... then it shifts into gear. Upon kickdown, it winds out to redline and shifts properly (the only time it does!).

Not only that, but when I got home, there was a distinct burning clutch/brake and onion? like smell permeating from the car. Fluid still looks nice and pink and smells fine.

If the place you mentioned rebuilds transmissions cheap, I may be willing to ship it there. I'm assuming it's in CA, OR or WA?

 

Well...

It's shot. Rechecked the linkage adjustments. All are good. Fluid is at the proper level. Drove it again with the same results as listed above. Kickdown cable is properly adjusted as well.

I would pull the valve body, but with the amount of crap in the bottom of the pan... I am assuming that it's simply shot and needs rebuilding. Anyone have a overhaul manual for the transmission that I can buy/borrow?

 

Ok, so I found the kit that I want to order. I am ready to pull the transmission this weekend. Are there any snags I should expect like having a hard time getting to the bellhousing bolts or the flywheel to TC bolts? I already know I have to support the engine and remove the distributor.

 

Whoa. just ran across this thread again. Before you bust your butt pulling the transmission...pull the pan again and double check your kick down cable. What you are describing is exactly what goes on when the cable is not routed properly...might save you some grief.

 

Double checked it, at the throttle body and inside the pan, both sides checked out as ok. I know it's properly adjusted and isn't sticking.