So I heard a rattling grinding noise and opened my hood to find this the rubber washer like thing around the alternator bolt that I have a arrow pointing to in the picture has litterly flaked apart. I need to drive my wife to work tomorrow and then go on a trip Saturday. Is there anyway I can fix this quickly cause I cant order the part it seems. So with that thing broken the alternator has no tension.

 

those are the alternator suspension bushings.

I believe this is the right part, but you never mentioned your car year/model.
Volvo HD Poly Engine Accessory Mounting Bushing AFTERMARKET 112309 1378153 463909P

and you need like 4 of them for the alternator, the A/C compressor also uses them, I think.

 

It's a 94 940 and I already found them online but they wont get here in time. I was looking for a temporary fix to hold me over for when they get here basically tomorrow and Saturday.

 

Figured it out on my own. What I did was wrap duct tape around it to make it thick enough then lube it with oil and force it in. Tension is tight and everything is holding together until I get the parts in.

New problem tho the car is idling very strange and hard. It does not stall but it is a chugging.

 

check all 4 spark plugs, check the rotor and cap, check the wiring to the fuel injectors.

does it smooth out if you give it just a touch of gas? then it might be something other than the above.

 

Yea if I hit 1500-2000 rpms It is fine. I'm wondering if it could be the that radio suppressor relay under the hood.

 

that relay provides the power to the fuel injectors (and on some late 940s, the whole fuel injection system). if it fails, your engine doesn't run at all.

so its still rough at 1000 rpm ? yeah, I'd check the spark plugs first, compare all 4, if one is different something is funky in that cylinder. ditto I'd check the distributor cap and rotor, look for carbon tracks from arcing.

 

Yea it starts to smooth out at 1000 rpm. I have to get all the tools to do that I Will let you know what I find when i do.

 

the other prime candidate of rough idle is tiny intake air leaks anywhere downstream from the MAF, through the throttle body and the head. also injector seals.

its just remotely possible that excess vibration from the shot alternator mount aggravated an impending crack in some rubber there.

 

That makes sense I was actually looking for something like that and found a loose clamp which i tightned but that did not do much sadly.

 

Figured out that the alternator tensioner bracket snapped and was causing no tension on the belt.

 

Alternator is fixed now trying to figure out the idle thing. The first time I fixed the alternator about 6 months ago the idle thing started in park and neutral it would go to 2k and drop to 1 then do it over and over. Only thing would stop it would be putting it in gear.

Now it goes from 2k to almost stall like 0 rpms and then jumps back up when stopped or at lights in any gear and park and neutral. I feel like I cliped something with the alternator or something in that area cause both times I worked on the alternator it either started or got worse.

 

Oh another thing when i am coming up to a stop around a little less than 2k rpms it backfires anywhere 1-3 times.

 

I also watched it today it does in fact smooth out at 1k rpms if I hold it there with the accelerator.

 

Take a compression test. This will show if there is a serious problem like a head gasket or a burned valve. If all is well, then the issue is tune up related one, may be a vacuum leak etc.

 

What is that black cone thing there and is the cable suppose to be super loose out of it?

 

cruise control actuator, I think.

 

Oh so this happened I have no idea what to do now it sliced the belt off. No junkyards I have around me have it. That plate and the fan behind it spins freely now. Can I get a new belt and not have the fan on it and just have the pully? Prob not right. So glad I just bought the bracket and bushings for this to break.

 

Also is the ac belt the same belt as the alternator

 

belts are wear items, not something you want to get from a junkyard. if you bring the broken belt into a NAPA or similar Auto Parts store, they should be able to match it up. ther'es probably numbers printed on the belt that indicate its size and/or brand/part number.

you NEED the fan or your engine will overheat in slow traffic.