Can anyone please help me. I am having problems in keeping the car running. It starts but then immediately stalls. Can keep it running if I disconnect the AMF. When I got to the throttle I noted that the flap was in the closed position. When I triede more gas I expected the flap to open. However it seemed to be in the closed position. Could push it a little in but nothing to speak of. It seems to be pumping gas but does not allow for more air to get into the throttle. Most seems to be going through the vent on the bottom of the throttle body. I presume that is a bypass to the cold start.
Any help would br really appreciated.
Thanks
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Either the throttle blade is seized or the rod is disconnected.

 

How do I free the throttle blade. Does it have something to do with the spring at the end of the shaft?
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It might and might not. Is the rod connected from the throttle cable arm to the throttle body?

 

The cable from the gas pedal is attached to the throttle via a clamp. When you pull the cable you can see the shaft and nut holding the clamp turning. Have the accordion section hooked back up so do not see inside the throttle body. But as I remember it the blade did not open when I did that before. It would seem that there was a disconect between the shaft on the outside of the throttle body and the blade. Not sure how that is possible. It is raining outside now so can not take the accordion section off as am scared that I may melt.
Keep smiling.
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When you can make sure the Rod is connected to both sides. One side connects by the throttle cable and the other goes right to the throttle blade shaft. If the blade was seized up I would think the throttle pedal would not move at all.

 

Thanks. I gather from that, that the rod somehow connects on one side to the cable assembly and on the other to the blade shaft. I had thought that the blade shaft extended ouside the body and then was connected to the cable assembly.

Could it be that the rod somehow got disconected on the blade side???
Keep smiling

 

Yes very possible. There is the plastic part on the end but there is also a clip that locks it tight. They break off then fall off.

 

My appologies. Rain stopped so took off accordion section and checked the throttle body. The blade/flap does move along with the gas. Must be3 old age on my part as not thinking straight. Anyhow could not here the click from the throttle position sensor/switch. Took it off the throttle body. There are three electrical terminals on it. IF turn the center plug to one extreme get a zero ohm reading between term 1 and 2. If rotate the plug off the extreme get an open circuit between these terminals. The resistance reading between terminal 3 and 2 shows open circuit when reading between terminals 1 and 2 is zero. When you turn the center plug the resistance reading between terminals 2 and 3 seems to stay at open circuit until reach the other end end then seems to go to zero resistance. Is this normal????
Thanks

 

You need to set it so at the slightest movement the switch clicks. The idle motor works till the switch clicks. Then the idle circuit is dead.

 

If the Throttle switch is always out of the idle position would cause the car to stall once I take the foot off the gas pedal? JUst trying to understand the function of the switch.
Thanks

 

Possible. The switch activates and deactivates the idle motor.
When the throttle body is fully closed the idle circuit is active and the idle motor is working.
When the switch clicks it turns the idle motor off.

 

Thanks. Not sure what the idle motor is. Have reset the throttle switch. Once again the car stalls as soon as I plug in the AMM. Have checked the AMM with ohm meter and it seems to be OK. Can run the car with the AMM unplugged. At slow speed it is a little rough but at higher speed it much better.

Noted when I had the AMM plugged in and inadvertently had the hose disconected which goes from the (I think the backfire valve) to the accordion section, the car backfired and has smoke comming from the hose. If I have the AMM unplugged this does not happen. What else can it be????

Trying hard to smile.

 

It might be a bad air mass meter.
I know it measured good but if the car runs with it unplugged and stalls with it plugged in it is usually a bad MAF.

 

Not sure what OK measurements on the air mass meter are. Have taken resitance readings between different terminals and not sure what some of them should be. Also is there a schematic of what the different terminals run into. It would help to determine what is causing the problem. Do not like to just change parts until the problem is solved. There should be the old fashioned diagnostic process which would determine what the real problem is.
Keep smiling

 

I don't have the diagram. Maybe someone on here does.